i would come give you a hand, but "unfortunately" i dont have a passport!!! and i have to wait for Puralator to deliver more parts!!!Originally Posted by skimask
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i would come give you a hand, but "unfortunately" i dont have a passport!!! and i have to wait for Puralator to deliver more parts!!!
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Passports? I thought all we needed was photo Gov't ID. I'd better do some checking. I've got a trip planned for this summer...here, thru the Black Hills/Rapid City, over to Yellowstone/Grand Tetons, up to Glacier (both U.S. and Canada versions), thru Banff and Jasper, up to Denali in Alaska, and back, sidestepping thru Yellowknife and back down.
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sounds like a good trip... i think to fly we need a passport now, but to drive you just need two pieces of government id..
so i noticed a while ago that i had shorted one OSC pin to 5v, would that have blown the OSC part of the chip???
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It's all a bit confusing... To get into Canada, I need one thing, to get back into the U.S., I need other things. Gotta do more looking.
I wouldn't think so, but...you know how far that goes...so i noticed a while ago that i had shorted one OSC pin to 5v, would that have blown the OSC part of the chip???
In external modes with crystals, the crystal/resonator is driving a differential amp inside the PIC (variable gain set by the CONFIG registers). I suppose if you had OSC1 driven to +5v and OSC2 driven to ground, you might blow it out (maximum differential = maximum output). Not really sure about that theory though, and surely not about to try it out.
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my stuff just got here a couple minutes ago, and so i soldered a new PIC to the board, and it WORKED!!!!
thanks to all the guys that had suggestions about why it didnt work, but it seems good now.. i just need to solder the top board back on (i was using jumper wires while testing)....
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That only matters if you come from the north!
If you do not believe in MAGIC, Consider how currency has value simply by printing it, and is then traded for real assets.
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Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, barter is the money of peasants - but debt is the money of slaves
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There simply is no "Happy Spam" If you do it you will disappear from this forum.
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Sad but trueThat only matters if you come from the north!
Dave
Always wear safety glasses while programming.
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Really?? so when we are told that the USA is changing it to the same regulations canada has when you guys try to come up here, its not really true???That only matters if you come from the north!
so i got the board working, and it all seems ok, except for my LCD. the LCd im using is a 24-pin DIP. one pin is common, and the rest are linked directly to one segment. i can get it to work somewhat, but sometimes certain segments dont dissapear when they are supposed to, and others dont always appear when they should.. i think maybe its cause the traces are so close together, and i cant clean all the flux off...
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I took it that Joe meant coming into the US from the south. Regulations do not seem to matter here for that. Illegal boarder crossing seems to be encouraged.
Dave
Always wear safety glasses while programming.
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I got a friend who works the border just north of Antler, ND. (southwest of Regina by quite a bit). I'm going to ask him this weekend.
Flux - rubbing alcohol (standard grocery store stuff) and cotten swabs and/or those acid brushes (or just a small stiff paint brush) work wonders. Overnight soaking doesn't help, re-heating the flux with an iron doesn't work. Just good ol' elbow grease.so i got the board working, and it all seems ok, except for my LCD. the LCd im using is a 24-pin DIP. one pin is common, and the rest are linked directly to one segment. i can get it to work somewhat, but sometimes certain segments dont dissapear when they are supposed to, and others dont always appear when they should.. i think maybe its cause the traces are so close together, and i cant clean all the flux off...
What kind of LCD do you have that has 24 pins? Is this one of those 7-segment types?
You should look into the whole Nokia-knock-off LCDs (check www.sparkfun.com). Easy to control, 6 lines from the PIC, 130x130 pixels, and in color. I'm having a blast with mine.
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the LCD im using is the seven segment type. it had 3 digits and two decimal points. there is 24-pins (one common, 3digits*7segments is 21 pins, and then the two decimal points. im using a 4x20 serial LCD for debugging and showing lots of info, but i would like to have this on top just to show small amounts of info. these things were pretty cheap, so i thought i would try it. and the datasheet shows the pinout but thats about it. they dont have current of voltage ratings, so i tried it on the breadboard and it seems to work at 5V and my meter doesnt show any current. it also seems as though it will "light" up all the way down to .5V (maybe lower but thats as far as i tried). so im thinking i might be getting inductance or a little leakage off of the flux on the traces that are beside each other.
i was thinking about the nokia lcd, and i would like it, but i wanted to keep this really small and simple. i havent looked at what it takes for code space either.. is it the same as a parallel LCD?? my little 3 digit one takes lots just because i need to tell it to turn on different ports.
im working on a flight data recorder for my rc airplanes, and i know there are some out there that i could buy for cheaper than i can make (i already have one too), but i would like to make my own. i will try to post a pic when i get home tonight..
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Keep your eyes on eBay. You can 8x1 LCDs, parallel types compatible with the LCDOUT statement for dirt cheap. I've got about a dozen extra's laying around just for that purpose.
I'd doubt it, but anything is possible. More likely you're getting a leak from a 'hidden ground' thru some other pins or thru a couple of extra diodes somewhere.so im thinking i might be getting inductance or a little leakage off of the flux on the traces that are beside each other.
Not even close to a parallel LCD...i was thinking about the nokia lcd, and i would like it, but i wanted to keep this really small and simple. i havent looked at what it takes for code space either.. is it the same as a parallel LCD?? my little 3 digit one takes lots just because i need to tell it to turn on different ports.
The font takes up about 500 bytes of EEPROM, the code itself and subroutines to run the thing, I'd guess about 8K at the most, including the graphics subroutines.
But think about it...once you get the routines written and they work, it's just a matter of 'INCLUDE'-ing them in your latest project.
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i made the code for this LCD as a seperate file, and just "include"d it into the main program. its actually the first time i have used the include command. now that i think about it, i should make sure i labelled all my ports properly for the display.
i know there is cheap parrallel displays around that are 2x8 or 2x10, so i might think about one of them...
ive been thinking about redesigning it and including some other stuff that i would like too. there is going to be a parallax GPS in this project, and i need to do some calculations for directions, so i need to use arctan. i think it might be easier to include a math coprocessor to do the calculations... i would also like to change the voltage regulatorto something that can supply more current, since im using the same supply for multiple things.
i will probably get this thing going and use it to test all the other "bits" i want to add, then after i have things working, i will make a new design and include more stuff.
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