PBP projects for R/C models

[Kenjones1935]

In the world of Hi-Tech I always purchase a second one - just in case.

If I were to switch, what do you suggest be my actions?

Ken

[ScaleRobotics]

In the world of Hi-Tech I always purchase a second one - just in case.

If I were to switch, what do you suggest be my actions?

Ken

That's right, I sort of forgot about the second one...
But it does not sound like you tried the firmware I just sent you. As one last try, I would have you stick with the one were working on, and try the firmware I just sent in the previous reply.

But your right, if that does not work:
Switch to the untouched one. Download the microchip driver here: http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/D...C/UBW32inf.zip and install it into your PC. And only plug the usb cable into it. See if you get a "new hardware detected" message.

Run the HID Bootloader executable from microchip http://www.cpustick.com/downloads/HIDBootLoader.exe , and see if it can find your UBW32. Then select the first firmware I sent you. This one: StickOS for Microchip PIC32MX4-F512L UBW32 Board Bootloader (v1.80) (.HEX, UBW32 HID bootloader image) with the long name. Let the microchip bootloader try to load the firmware into the untouched one (not even using your PicKit2).

Let me know how it goes.

[Kenjones1935]

I have four USB ports on the back and two on the front of my PC. How do I know into which physical port to plug the cable?

How does HyperTerminal know?

Ken

[ScaleRobotics]

I have four USB ports on the back and two on the front of my PC. How do I know into which physical port to plug the cable?

How does HyperTerminal know?

Ken

I have had equipment not get recognized when it was plugged into the front, so I would try the back.

Then, is any new hardware getting recognized when you plug it in? This is kind of a must have.

What step are we on. New device, or old device?

The only way that hyperterminal will know is if you tell it what com port it is. And the only way You will know, is if you look in Device Manager, and see a new serial port pop up when you plug the UBW32 in. And, the only way this will happen, is if the UBW32 gets recognized as new hardware. Which will only happen if we have the right firmware loaded .... etc... etc...

But I think we are getting closer.

[ScaleRobotics]

Hey Ken,

I have heard you say bang-bang a lot describing the turning control for the car. Are you saying that with the remote control that came with the model car, there is no proportional control of the steering, just full right, straight, and full left? Or is there any in between?

Perhaps you could do some testing to see if a pwm signal to the steering would give you some sort of proportional control?

Is this the same for the throttle? On and off, and no in between? Perhaps you could test that as well.

Without any more info, I don't think you can get more than wild guesses. Some pictures of the steering control, and motor control might help as well.

EDIT: Hot off the press. This news from MeLabs:

melabs now offers multi-seat, educational licensing of PICBASIC PRO for schools. Call for details.

[Kenjones1935]

scalerobotics,

1/10 scale TOY level cars cost about $50. 1/10 scale MODEL level cars start at $200. The TOYs are plastic toys. The MODELs are miniature automobiles.

The TOY cars have only [full on / full off] steering and wheel power controls. Their steering servo has two inputs. Three of the four possible states are used:
[A=7v, B=gnd] ==> steer left
[A=gnd, B=7v] ==> steer right
[A=gnd, B=gnd} ==> steer straight (spring loaded)

The corresponding is true for Forward, Reverse, Brake (due to back EMF) for their DC drive motor.

The TOYs have no differential gears, no drive gears at all, no toe in, no caster, no spring suspension, no dampening and plastic tires. They are inexpensive, fast, lots of fun and colorful. They do a great racing skid turn - just turn the wheel and put the motor in brake state. They are large enough to easily accommodate my solderless PIC kit.

The 1/12 TOYs are considerably slower than the 1/10 size. I have succeeded in making one run smoothly around the room hugging the wall. A bit boring.....

I'm off to the old gym to test my MODEL level with velocity and warning distances now all proportional to the position on one POT. Hopefully now all I need to do is find the correct velocity proportionizing formula for each of the SONAR warning distances which are:
frontclear
frontdanger
stopreversing
desiredtrack
outertrack

Ken

[cncmachineguy]

heres my 2 cents. I think I read somewhere in this thread you are driving the steering/drives with actual relays. First thing to do I think is trade them in for H-bridges. Then you will be able to get much higher switching speeds.

next, see if you can get the steering to become semi proportional or at least slower by pulsing the control. I am guessing it is a solinoid and not a motor for the steering. These take time to move fully, so if you can release the signal before the wheels have turned all the way, it will become at least stepped. the springs will smooth out the signals to make it appear proportional.

Now I am sure you can do the same with the drive. Once you have H-bridges in there, you can PWM it