PBP projects for R/C models

[ScaleRobotics]

Trial and error tells me that the only way to reconnect hyperterminal via C4 (the USB) to my BITWhacker after physically dislocating the connector is to be holding down the RESET switch while inserting the USB connector.

Anybody see that written down anywhere?

It is sort of documented.....

I think this is an effect of having the bootloader resident on the device. You "should" be able to either have the bootloader resident, with StickOS in the program memory (sort of underneath it). Or, to get rid of the "feature" you found, program over the whole thing, using your Pickit2 with the StickOS with the shorter name (not meant for bootloaders). Though I am a little hesitant to have you do that to the working device. Better off trying this on the non-working one, and see if we can revive it.

I think, then you would have it immediately recognized when you plug it in to a port, without pressing a button.

When I say sort of documented, it is at the bottom of the UBW32 page here: http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/doc...mentation.html Does this explain what you have found?

In my search, I also found a page that has the pinouts for the device in a readable format. http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/doc...easeNotes.html

As for your question about the other off topic thread: We had a member graciously volunteer to build some StickOS devices. But it is a fair amount of work, and somewhere between the commitments of family, work, (and I think even moving), it has been understandably delayed a bit. So we are all living vicariously through you right now. (Although I do have a piece of hardware that I can get a command line interface with StickOS, just not via USB.) There is also a StickOS simulator for PC's lcated here: http://www.cpustick.com/downloads/StickOS.v1.80.exe But the simulator would have different pin names than your hardware.

And as for cheaper, the Eagle board files for the UBW32 are available at Sparkfun's site. Although you sound a bit skeptical (as was I) about soldering a device like that, most others seem to find it very doable, to hand solder these devices (and the rest use toaster ovens). Doing this, with a fair number of boards, would make it much cheaper than the $40 a pop. For soldering tips, check's out nicmus's response here, and Dave's post just after it: http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/show...2872#post92872