How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?


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  1. #1
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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    The idea of using optocoupler is to have electrically separate circuits. If you connect the two reference points together as a common ground then what is the point of using an optocoupler? Connect directly the PWM to the MosFet and save few parts.

    Ioannis

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    ... what is the point of using an optocoupler? ...
    I was trying out Richard's idea of using pre-made circuits. It wasn't the same design as what he used (no boost), but I thought it would be a good exercise.

    https://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/sho...110#post154110


    This circuit isn't to power the project. I'm just trying to use 2 pots and PWM 5 volts to control the brightness of LED strings and the intensity of 7-segment LEDs (one pot controls the dash lights using 1 circuit, another the radio display using a 2nd circuit).

    I'm trying to reproduce this effect:

    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    I do not quite follow what you are after. But anyway, the purpose of the optoisolation is to isolate circuits that are in different voltage levels for either safety of the users or the safety and protection of the circuits.

    If none of these are of concern at your application, then I see no point in using that module. Connect directly the PWM signal to the MosFet and control whatever load you have.

    Ioannis

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    I do not quite follow what you are after. But anyway, the purpose of the optoisolation is to isolate circuits that are in different voltage levels for either safety of the users or the safety and protection of the circuits.

    If none of these are of concern at your application, then I see no point in using that module. Connect directly the PWM signal to the MosFet and control whatever load you have.

    Ioannis

    This circuit was only to provide a fast and easy source of current without worrying about transistor/MOSFET/whatever selection.

    If it became my final solution, great, But it was just a way to test PWM LED strips and 7-segment displays without worrying about over-loading a switching device.

    I'm doing that now (looking for a suitable L-V MOSFET).
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Using JLCPCB opens up other options for me. It gives me access to very low-cost components with very small footprints that can be integrated in my circuits.

    These PWM circuits are just for ease of testing now. I'll be switching to a dual logic-level MOSFET to drive the console lights and radio display.

    The hard part is finding a device that is available at Digikey/Mouser/Newark in through-hole footprint, as well as the desired SMD footprint at JLCPCB.

    I'm just starting to look for a good L-V MOSFET now. Any suggestions?
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Semiconductors are not cheap on LCSC or JLCPCB. Maybe sometimes twice the price of Mouser or Digi-Key. But on passives, in any case these are cheap.

    As for a MosFet, there are thousands available! I would not bother too much and select any one that is on stock and is in my budget.

    For example:

    250mA https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...x%2FNVUw%3D%3D

    4A: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...T0hBeH7w%3D%3D

    Ioannis

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    I really like one of those dual MOSFETs; that's exactly what I need.

    But JLCPCB doesn't have the 4A model, and I'd really like the ability to drive unlimited LEDs as high as I want.

    I have these on hand and JLCPCB has them both:

    IRFR5410 P-channel 1A VgsTH = 2.0-4.0V
    IRF730 N-channel 5.5A VgsTH = 2.0-4.5V

    But their Gate thresholds are higher than what google says is a "low-voltage MOSFET" (under 2.0V threshold)...?

    Forum gurus say the device will turn on, but there's some doubt if it will "remain ON".
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    The LCSC and JLCPCB do not have common stocks.

    Datasheets sometimes are tricky and need attention to details.

    What are your needs exactly? If you aim for a lot of Id current then you will need a good gate drive too.

    Ioannis
    Last edited by Ioannis; - 13th February 2024 at 13:26.

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    ...What are your needs exactly? If you aim for a lot of Id current then you will need a good gate drive too.

    Ioannis

    I need to PWM this 3 foot 5V LED strip rated 10 watts / meter:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003307581709.html


    Amps = watts / volts

    Max of 2A for a glareshield (like a car dashlight).


    I also need to PWM 7-segment LEDs on a 2nd PWM circuit:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003119570725.html


    According to google, each segment is typically rated up to maximum of 20mA.
    Max of 160mA for entire digit (7 bars and 1 decimal point).

    Max of 960mA for 6-digits.


    My uneducated instinct tells me to look for MOSFETs that can "at least" take twice as much, so they can remain cooler.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    ... but there's some doubt if it will "remain ON".
    I do not know what you mean by that. MosFets are not Thyristors or Triacs. A MosFet will be on if the drive is within specs and as long as there is drive. It will not remail ON if there is no drive.

    Ioannis

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    Default Re: How do I connect this PWM-controlled supply board properly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    I do not know what you mean by that. MosFets are not Thyristors or Triacs. A MosFet will be on if the drive is within specs and as long as there is drive. It will not remail ON if there is no drive.

    Ioannis

    Sorry, I didn't keep a link of what forum I read that from. One of the "gurus" was saying it's not enough to turn ON a MOSFET, you must ensure it "remains" ON.

    I also thought ON meant ON.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

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