Automatic Toilet Flusher


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  1. #1
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    Here's the final bread board

    Maybe I am missing something I don't know
    maybe you can point it out.

    I used a 16F627A
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  2. #2
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    Thumbs up Should work...

    Quote Originally Posted by Techbuilder View Post
    Here's the final bread board

    Maybe I am missing something I don't know
    maybe you can point it out.

    I used a 16F627A
    Looks good.
    I didn’t check the PIC pin-out, expect you did that.
    Looks like a 4.7k (4k7) resistor to +, on a pin probability MCLR = good.
    Should work.
    But:
    You should have a ceramic or low inductance capacitor, right close to the PIC, between power pins. About ~ 0.1 microfarads.

    I always put an electrolytic capacitor on the +/- “rail” (power) where it comes onto the solder-less bread board. About ~ 100 microfarads.
    It would not hurt to put another electrolytic capacitor on the same power pins as the previous ceramic. About ~ 10 to 100 microfarads. Yes all the capacitors are in parallel which seems strange to beginners. You will get the idea as you start to learn about faster circuit dynamics…

    Also, I like to hang an LED with a current limit resistor on the power rail. This helps us avoid “dumb time”, when the power is off and the green trigger LED will not come on no matter how many things we try.
    Disclaimer: This is something I have heard about. I have NEVER had this happen to me.
    -Adam-
    Ohm it's not just a good idea... it's the LAW !

  3. #3
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    Thanks but it didn't work
    When I programmed the chip and put it on there nothing happened
    Was it because of my trisb?

    Or is it because of how I connected my Sharp IC to my micro controller?

  4. #4
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    Smile send more information...

    Quote Originally Posted by Techbuilder View Post
    Thanks but it didn't work
    When I programmed the chip and put it on there nothing happened
    Was it because of my trisb?

    Or is it because of how I connected my Sharp IC to my micro controller?
    Techbuilder,

    We need to see your circuit drawn as a schematic (schematic = 1000 words or 10 pictures)

    First you should try to find out if you have a hardware or software problem.

    Software = Fix code
    Hardware = Fix hardware

    Hardware:
    You need to test each portion of your circuit as a module.

    Disconnect the wire between the proximity detector and the PIC input pin.

    Run the PIC with a push button input.
    Put a 10k resistor from plus (+) to the input pin, connect a switch (or wire you can “make and break”) from the same pin to ground.
    This simulates the proximity detector.
    When you momentarily connect that input pin to ground, does your servo work?

    Yes = Problem with the proximity detector or input connection.
    No = Problem with the PIC code, PIC circuit or servo.

    To just ask without some sort out of problems puts the burden on the person not needing the help.

    -Adam-
    Ohm it's not just a good idea... it's the LAW !

  5. #5
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    Ok, Well here is the schematic.....


    There is a possibility it is the servo but I changed the software to turn on a LED when the proximity sensor is active and nothing.

    So it's either the circuit or the software
    but take a look at the schematic down bellow
    to see if I might of forgot something crucial.

    My guess is that it is the program, but it might be the interface from the sensor to the pic
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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