Automatic Toilet Flusher

Hi Techbuilder,

Nice job building all of that.
The layout and diode orientation is good.
Glad to see the little light blockers on the back side of the LEDs.
What type of IR diodes did you use?

It looks like the diagram on the webpage agrees with the data sheet.

Picture 3 looks like only the electrolytic capacitor is attached to pin 1 of the device.
Is there a hidden wire from device pin 1 to V+ or is it missing?

Also:
I don’t know why but, IR “Emitters” seem to have a different convention from the visible LEDs.
The shorter lead is the Anode (+) positive polarity. Not like normal LED.

-Adam-

Why thank you :)

No there is no wire going to the positive, except that it is on the same row as pin 1
should I connect it to positive?

in his picture there was no wire going from the cap to positive.

Also when I take the IR LEDS out the Green led is still on constant

The IR LEDs are the ones that were put on the site
they are Fairchild QED234 Infrared LEDs that I purchased from digi key.

The only things that I used different was the radial electrolytic cap instead of the ceramic.
But it was still rated at 0.33uf

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Why thank you :)

No there is no wire going to the positive, except that it is on the same row as pin 1
should I connect it to positive?

in his picture there was no wire going from the cap to positive.

Also when I take the IR LEDS out the Green led is still on constant

The IR LEDs are the ones that were put on the site
they are Fairchild QED234 Infrared LEDs that I purchased from digi key.

The only things that I used different was the radial electrolytic cap instead of the ceramic.
But it was still rated at 0.33uf

---

The capacitor substitute should be fine in this application. Just be aware of the polarity.

I agree the picture on the web page looks like there is no connection from (the junction of pin 1 and the capacitor) to 5V+.

Here are other clues to the contrary.

Quote:

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Garrett Hamilton–Smith, Raihan Khondker, and Will Norris
"Connect the Cathode of D1 and pin 1 of the IC to same common point to be connected to +5V."

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<IMG SRC="http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2350&stc=1&d=120257342 8">

Cool I got it working!!!!

Yay now I am one step further to completing the automatic toilet flusher.

Thanks Pic_User :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Cool I got it working!!!!

Yay now I am one step further to completing the automatic toilet flusher.

Thanks Pic_User :)

---

Great news Techbuilder,

Can you give us your impressions of the results?
Do you get the same range as the web site 15 cm (5.9”)? Reflected..
Does the “target” surface color / shininess make a difference?
Does ambient light clobber it?
How much range if you detach the IR Emitters, put extension wires on them, and point them at the sensor (beam break)? Like across a door way...

-Adam-

Well that's a good idea so
better yet I made a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sR0uQbD6D2E

COOL!
What was the problem before?

Thanks, the reason it wasn't working was because pin 3 was not going to positive so for some reason the led kept being on but once I supplied the 5 volts + to pin 3
it worked.

Thanks, Good info.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Thanks, the reason it wasn't working was because pin 3 was not going to positive so for some reason the led kept being on but once I supplied the 5 volts + to pin 3 it worked.

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Hi Techbuilder,
Do you mean pin 3, or pin one (1) to plus (+)?
<IMG SRC="http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2351&stc=1&d=120266867 7">
-Adam-

Yeah actually your right

it was pin 1 that I supplied the + to because pin 3 goes to ground

Sorry my mistake

Quote:

---

IRLED1 var PORTB.0
Servo var PORTB.1

TRISB=%00000001

Loop:
If IRLED1 =1 then
Pulsout 0,130
pause 10
pulsout 0,150
else
pulsout 0,150
endif
Goto Loop

End

---

This is the code I made do you think this might work?

Basically I want it to read the input and if the proximity sensor is activated then have it move the servo all the way to the right or left.

To find the center of the servo
I knew that dead center was 1.5ms and since I am using a 4mhz crystal the time interval of PULSOUT is in units of 10 us.

So I used this equation to find my pulse
1.5ms = 1500us
and then 1500/10= 150

and clockwise is 1.3ms so I did the same equation for that

Can not comment about the servo, I do not know which one you are using.

In your code

Change
Pulsout 0,130

to

Pulsout Servo,130

Use either the full pin name ( PORTB.0 ) or the var assigned to it. Works much better I think.

But would it work if I corrected that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techbuilder

But would it work if I corrected that?

---

If you don't have

include "bs1defs.bas"

or

include "bs2defs.bas"

in your program, it could very well fix it.
(Ref: Section 4.11, page 28-29 of the PBP manual)

Here's the final bread board

Maybe I am missing something I don't know
maybe you can point it out.

I used a 16F627A

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Here's the final bread board

Maybe I am missing something I don't know
maybe you can point it out.

I used a 16F627A

---

Looks good.
I didn’t check the PIC pin-out, expect you did that.
Looks like a 4.7k (4k7) resistor to +, on a pin probability MCLR = good.
Should work.
But:
You should have a ceramic or low inductance capacitor, right close to the PIC, between power pins. About ~ 0.1 microfarads.

I always put an electrolytic capacitor on the +/- “rail” (power) where it comes onto the solder-less bread board. About ~ 100 microfarads.
It would not hurt to put another electrolytic capacitor on the same power pins as the previous ceramic. About ~ 10 to 100 microfarads. Yes all the capacitors are in parallel which seems strange to beginners. You will get the idea as you start to learn about faster circuit dynamics…

Also, I like to hang an LED with a current limit resistor on the power rail. This helps us avoid “dumb time”, when the power is off and the green trigger LED will not come on no matter how many things we try. :)
Disclaimer: This is something I have heard about. I have NEVER had this happen to me. :o
-Adam-

Thanks but it didn't work :(
When I programmed the chip and put it on there nothing happened
Was it because of my trisb?

Or is it because of how I connected my Sharp IC to my micro controller?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Thanks but it didn't work :(
When I programmed the chip and put it on there nothing happened
Was it because of my trisb?

Or is it because of how I connected my Sharp IC to my micro controller?

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Techbuilder,

We need to see your circuit drawn as a schematic (schematic = 1000 words or 10 pictures)

First you should try to find out if you have a hardware or software problem.

Software = Fix code
Hardware = Fix hardware

Hardware:
You need to test each portion of your circuit as a module.

Disconnect the wire between the proximity detector and the PIC input pin.

Run the PIC with a push button input.
Put a 10k resistor from plus (+) to the input pin, connect a switch (or wire you can “make and break”) from the same pin to ground.
This simulates the proximity detector.
When you momentarily connect that input pin to ground, does your servo work?

Yes = Problem with the proximity detector or input connection.
No = Problem with the PIC code, PIC circuit or servo.

To just ask without some sort out of problems puts the burden on the person not needing the help. :)

-Adam-

Ok, Well here is the schematic.....


There is a possibility it is the servo but I changed the software to turn on a LED when the proximity sensor is active and nothing.

So it's either the circuit or the software
but take a look at the schematic down bellow
to see if I might of forgot something crucial.

My guess is that it is the program, but it might be the interface from the sensor to the pic

Maybe this can work better in case it is only code problem
Loop:
If IRLED1 =1 then
for a=1 to 100 'allow several pulses for the servo to reach the requested position
Pulsout 0,140 'could be 100=1ms to 200=2ms
pause 10
next a
else
pulsout 0,150 '150=1,5ms middle position
pause 10
endif
Goto Loop



Also check your servo if it is damaged since you power it with 9V instead of the usual 5V most RC servos work.

Bill

Thanks

I appreciate it :)

Although the servo was modified along time ago for continuous rotation,
Although it still works

5volts is actually low for a servo, that's the lowest amount of voltage you can imply.
In the book I own PIC basic projects
it has a servo page and it states that servos can run from 5vdc to 9vdc and 5volts was not recommended.

I tested it out and it works fine

I believe for it to be the sensor

Post the code you are currently trying.

Write the code to make a pin high or low output. No pulses for testing and use an LED instead of the servo.

What is the voltage at the sensor out put when connected to the PIC?

Doesn't RBO and RB1 and so fourth supply 5+ to the pin?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Doesn't RBO and RB1 and so fourth supply 5+ to the pin?

---

Yep, at roughly 25mA per pin, at MOST! Try to draw any more than that, and you'll end with a pin that won't supply squat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techbuilder

Doesn't RBO and RB1 and so fourth supply 5+ to the pin?

---

In your case RB0 is an input so it is looking for 0 volts to 1.2 volts for a LOW and 3.6 volts to 5 for HIGH. It is best to use a pull up or pull down resistor so the pin will be 0 or 5 and not floating around. Another part or two but I like using external pulls and not rely on the internals.

So, when the sensor is sending its high signal to the PIC and connected to the PIC, what is the voltage.

Try making the pin high or low with out the sensor.

Ok so I tried it with an led and it was working so I am guessing it is the servo
the potentiometer must be broken in the servo

When I get the new servo in the mail I will try it out

thanks everyone

by the way once everything works I will put up a "How to" for this automatic toilet flusher
once I am done.

Just in case anyone else wants to build it

Glad you found the problem!

Just curios, what servo are you using?

Well I still don't know if it is the servo
because when I compiled and programed it
the led was supposed to stay on and the other was supposed to be low
unless it made contact, then the other led that was low now becomes high and the other led that was high before now becomes low.

Here is the code

Quote:

---

LEDSW var PORTB.0
LED1 var PORTB.1
LED2 var PORTB.2

TRISB=%00000001

Loop:
If LEDSW=1 then
High LED1
LOW LED2
else
LOW LED1
HIGH LED2
endif
Goto Loop

End

---

And....what happens. Does anything light up? Did you try LEDSW HIGH by running a jumper to the +5 bus?

Might help to know the voltage output of the sensor. Possible it needs conditioned before the PIC. Even it the voltage is correct the current may not be high enough to over come the pull down resistor.

One LED stays on until the sensor makes contact
but the other one does nothing.

One LED works as expected. The sensor and PIC work together. The code looks OK.

Are you by chance missing an IR LED? Maybe that is the one not lighting, or on the wrong pin?

Perhaps Portb.1 is damaged(from 9V??? through the servo???) if only LED2 works as expected.
Test by replacing LED1 with LED2 and vice versa in your program.
Or try to move LED1 to another pin e.g. portb.5 just in case portb.1 is not correctly configured(depends on PIC as some pins do other things as well).
Remember to change the TRIS register also.
Bill

Quote:

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Perhaps Portb.1 is damaged(from 9V??? through the servo???) if only LED2 works as expected.
Test by replacing LED1 with LED2 and vice versa in your program.
Or try to move LED1 to another pin e.g. portb.5 just in case portb.1 is not correctly configured(depends on PIC as some pins do other things as well).
Remember to change the TRIS register also.
Bill

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Portb doesn't see 9 volts if you took a look at my schematic it has a separate power supply.
The potentiometer is what connects to the pic from the servo.

Quote:

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One LED works as expected. The sensor and PIC work together. The code looks OK.

Are you by chance missing an IR LED? Maybe that is the one not lighting, or on the wrong pin?

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No everything is there and facing right

The only thing I can say to try now is a different pin for the LED that is not working (or a different chip ) you could have a bad one.

Sorry I can not be of more help.

No it's not your fault

I will try with just a regular switch and then see what happens

What resistor should I use for connecting a switch to a pin?

I use a 10K normally. Higher - more resistance- is fine if you do not have a 10K.
The PBP manual under the BUTTON command has a schematic.

Cool thanks
:)

Techbuilder

I saw this and thought about your project.
https://www.gettoilettunes.com/?gcli...FREcagod0iI2bQ
A few modifications and...well they would have to be trained to put the lid down.

Sorry guys I haven't put any information up
I got ripped off by this online company

http://www.e-clec-tech.com

Never got the servos and they were way over priced

but it was a lesson learned.

I had to re order the servos but this time it is from amazon so this time I should receive my item.

Also I have the flu and I have been in bed for a week
it sucks but I will get better.

As for the cap

It is connected to pin 1 and 3 of the IR IC which is in the schematic