the major difference is that a power cycle resets all the bits and pieces that are in play on the breadboard, even the ones that are sulking cause the pic stopped talking to them quite rudely when it was reset
the major difference is that a power cycle resets all the bits and pieces that are in play on the breadboard, even the ones that are sulking cause the pic stopped talking to them quite rudely when it was reset
Warning I'm not a teacher
Ok.
So if I wanted a complete reset, I'd be better to do a complete shut-down of power to the entire circuit (USB PIC along with multiple secondary PICs and MCP23017).
Would a pushbutton to a 555 timer that controls a PNP that feeds the circuit be a good way to do this?
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Why use a 555 and not directly connect the pushbutton to the /MCLR?
Ioannis
That was my plan. I've been doing that since forever, and it's only now causing problems.
I'm "guessing" it's because I'm using more and more peripherals in the PICs (timers, Interrupts, ADC, PWM, things I didn't really use much). I'm now using a lot more registers, and I'm guessing some of them are easily offended.
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My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
10uF and 100K generate a pulse of 1.1 seconds; should be enough for a complete reset of all ICs.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/too...table-circuit/
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
one thing that can happen is if you have any +5 volt on any of the peripheral pins, the input to the pins inside the PIC have diodes pointing to the supply voltage and then that 'could' keep the pic from resetting..... then, I don't know what..... maybe back to software instruction to reset....@RESET. Or if you take away/turn off power, would have to turn off the power for all external parts![]()
I'm already using IRFZ44N power mosfets to power some sub-circuits. It's plenty strong to withstand whatever I throw at it.
I was thinking of using a 7404 inverter to get the signal the right way (this mosfet wants LOW to be OFF, the pulse from 555 will be HIGH).
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
That is very possible.
This reset issue has cost me several days easily, I remember many frantic hours since I'm testing ADC/Timer/HPWM logic, not understanding why the simplest code mods were not taking; slapping LATB.x diagnostic signals all over the place and watching the Saleae window. I'm just happy I wasn't a complete doorknob all that time.
Nah, I like bulletproof solutions, even if they heavy-handed. Guess what band I got my online nickname from.
I'm really liking this 555 timer, 7404 inverter, IRFZ44N mosfet idea (mostly cause I thought it up on my own, and I've never used 555 and 7404 ICs before).
Unless you see a fault in my idea?
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
If you have a case like what amgen described, you better have a power cycle. This could be a relay, power MosFet, or a simple enable/disable of the power supply chip, etc.
Ioannis
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