easyHID question

[keymuu]

As long as you've done everything exactly right, then yes, An EasyHID program will connect to the computer without any hassles.


When you have MORE THAN 1 problem at the same time. It's often hard to find them, because simple trial and error no longer works. No matter what you change, it still won't work.

In the case of the VREGEN. IT MUST BE ENABLED!!!

Please try the attached .HEX file. It's for an 18F4550 @12mhz.
I've set all the configs in the program, so allow meProg to use those settings.
Remove the .TXT extension.

All it does is connect the USB.
All other pins are set to input.
MCLR is disabled.

After programming, be sure to cycle the power ON/OFF once.

This should tell us if it's hardware, or software.

Thank you it surely did tell us...

The behavior is exactly the same, no difference. The configuration as earlier, with the exception that the USB voltage regulator is enabled as it should be.

If your code was working (that is surely was, of course, no doubt ) then the fault must be a hw matter. Please take a look at an excerpt from the schematic that is attached. That is the schematic from which the prototype pcb has been done. It is Eagle-cad, and it claims (and so it also is) that the board and schematic are consistent, so it is easier to look at it than on the pcb. I can not see an error there, but I'm often quit blind, too often...

[Darrel Taylor]

Yes, that program definitely works.
Dumped in on an 18F4550 before I uploaded it here.

I don't see anything directly in the schematic.
But up in the top left corner, there's some connections labeled P$1. Where do they go? Nowhere I hope.

Which type USB connector are you using? A, B, mini?

[keymuu]

Yes, that program definitely works.
Dumped in on an 18F4550 before I uploaded it here.

I don't see anything directly in the schematic.
But up in the top left corner, there's some connections labeled P$1. Where do they go? Nowhere I hope.

Which type USB connector are you using? A, B, mini?

I'm really glad at this point that my PIC has a "working firmware" in it, very glad indeed. Thank you Darrel
With working I mean that this is a real milestone here and next I shall/must/will find an error on the pcb. If not ... that is not an option.

I will take a big magnifying glass and look throughly what could be wrong with the pcb. The error/fault/"something wrong" have to be there, so it needs a sharp and thorough inspection...

It is a prototype at this stage. This means that there is an USB connector so you can easily use the USB on it, connect it to your PC etc.

The connectors in the left upper corner are there for the final situation, at that point the USB connector will disappear from the pcb and it is moved then behind those connectors.

The USB connector is B type, attached also an excerpt from the Eagle.pcb just to demonstrate the connector type

A USB mini connector wouldn't be good for testing purposes...

[keymuu]

... error on the pcb. If not ... that is not an option.

Still that is not an option. However can not find anything wrong, it seems to be electrically good when measuring all routes around USB, nothing seems to be wrong or even can not suspect any routes.

However, I have one question, what should one see on D+ and D-?
Now those seem to be steady, about 100mV.

Darrel: that software you kindly provided as a hex-file... When not knowing what is inside I'm not sure about what I should see on those two pins (23,24)?
.

[Darrel Taylor]

However, I have one question, what should one see on D+ and D-?
Now those seem to be steady, about 100mV.

That's not good.
They are a differential pair. So when one is high, the other is low.
You should never see both low.

Oh, and according to the PCB layout, the B-type connector is wired to the SN65220 correctly, and the pinout is right. But is was a pretty small portion. Hard to tell where the traces go from there.

[keymuu]

That's not good.
They are a differential pair. So when one is high, the other is low.
You should never see both low.

Yes, of course... however they still are both "down" so probably the USB portion of my PIC is broken. How has that happen, can not tell, don't know but that seems to be the case. Have to wait for Monday to get a new PIC.

Oh, and according to the PCB layout, the B-type connector is wired to the SN65220 correctly, and the pinout is right. But is was a pretty small portion. Hard to tell where the traces go from there.

Everything is ok there, that picture was just for showing the connector. As said earlier, if Eagle says that the board and schematic are consistent then there really can't be such errors. Have measured all traces, they go where they should go and they are not broken either and they are not too close each others either.

Could it be possible that the PIC would have been "broken" when bought? I could not think so, but on the other hand Murphy's law says something else...

[Darrel Taylor]

Could it be possible that the PIC would have been "broken" when bought? I could not think so, but on the other hand Murphy's law says something else...

Always a possibility.

Attached is a new HEX file.

It blinks PORTA.2 at a 0.5hz rate. 1 sec on, 1 sec off.

I've re-enabled the Oscillator switchover, in case the main isn't working. If it's switching over, the blinks will get REALLY long. (~20 sec)

WDT is on, in case it locks up somewhere.

And MCLR is still disabled.

[keymuu]

I had a failure in current supply that seemed to affect also the USB life somehow, however can not explain the process, can only say what I hear and what I can see. That is fixed now, but did not fix the main problem here...

Now I can see on D- something happening quit quickly after power-up, then nothing or let us say the same about 100mV staying quit steady. But the plugged and unplugged sound (ding-dong ... dong-ding) does not come.

Darrel: Could you please add a toggle portA.2 (or lata.2) somewhere in your code so that when your program is running I could detect it via that pin (4). That would help to localize, or at least to take me closer to the error source.

I’m kind of lost here, don’t know should that code say ding-dong or not, and don’t know if it is running or is it stuck somewhere.

[Darrel Taylor]

OK, I'll put a blinky on RA2.
Give me some time to modify and test.

In the mean time.

1. Check the voltage on pin 18 Vusb. It should be ~3.3V.

2. D+ uses the internal pull-up to signify FULL speed operation. You should see around 2.8-3.3 volts on pin 24. If not, disconnect the USB cable, and check again.

3. Try plugging another USB device into that USB port on the computer or hub. Make sure the port itself is working.

[keymuu]

OK, I'll put a blinky on RA2.
Give me some time to modify and test.

Thank you

In the mean time.
1. Check the voltage on pin 18 Vusb. It should be ~3.3V.

USB ON MY PIC HAVE TO BE BROKEN!
There (pin 18) is a voltage that is about 10mV without the cable connected and something over 40mV with cable connected, however that value seems to grow slowly, maybe 10mV in 20sec.

2. D+ uses the internal pull-up to signify FULL speed operation. You should see around 2.8-3.3 volts on pin 24. If not, disconnect the USB cable, and check again.

Well, do not see that as could be guessed... it is broken, I can see on pin 24 (D+) something around 100-200mV

3. Try plugging another USB device into that USB port on the computer or hub. Make sure the port itself is working.

Yes, all ports work as they should. I can change devices from one port to an other without any problems etc.