You might find this useful
http://otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html
You might find this useful
http://otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html
Dave
Always wear safety glasses while programming.
Hi,
The power dissipated in a MOSFET is the voltage across it times
the current going through it.
The voltage across the MOSFET when it is on will be the
resistance of the MOSFET, Rds(on) times the current going
thorough it.
A MOSFET IRLR/U2905 has a on-resistance of 0.027Ω.
Power dissipated by the MOSFET case when you have 2 Amps of
current going thorough it will be: (2A = 100 LED's 20mA).
P = 2A^2 * 0.027Ω = 0.108 Watts.
(No problem without heatsink).
Best regards,
Luciano
Thats good news then. I dont even have room for TO220 packages. Theres no way i could get a heatsink to fit in there. Im not even using a heatsink for my voltage regulator since it never gets remotely warm with just a PIC chip and a MAX485 connected.
One thing i dont understand is how you know that 0.108W means you dont need a heatsink
Hi,
From the datasheet. The thermal resistance junction-to-ambient is for when
there is no heatsink.
IRLR/U2905 datasheet:
http://www.irf.com/product-info/data...a/irlr2905.pdf
The thermal resistance Junction-to-Ambient of an IRLR2905 is 110 °C/W.
Its operating junction temperature range is -55 to + 175 °C.
Code:Example ambient air temperature = 45°C: 175°C − 45°C __________ = 1.18 Watts 110°C/W With an ambient air temperature of 45°C, without heatsink an IRLR2905 can dissipate 1.18 Watts. (Absolute Maximum).
Best regards,
Luciano
Last edited by Luciano; - 30th September 2008 at 18:35.
Ive been looking at the datasheets again and as far as i can see the LEDs in total will use at most 200mA per color. Ive been trying to find a suitable mosfet to control them but im still having a bit of trouble. There is a category on rapid called "TO-220 Logic level power MOSFETs N-Channel". I dont want a TO220 package but i thought i would look at the datasheets anyway because they seem to be exactly what you recommended. I still cant seem to understand this gate voltage. Even the logic level one im looking at says "Gate-source voltage ±18V". There is also a "Gate Threshold Voltage" That says 2.5V. Is that what i should be looking at?
I almost got the heatsink bit. skimask confused me a bit though. I have a rough idea of how hot certain components will get with a certain load on them but usually i just put my finger on it to test. That seems to work well except for when i shorted a regulator out once... ouch :P
So, It looks like the only logic level mosfets that rapid do are in a TO220 package. I want to look through the rest of the mosfets to see if any will do the job but it looks like most of them are for audio circuits
Edit: Would the 2N7000 N CHANNEL MOSFET be suitable?
Last edited by The Master; - 30th September 2008 at 23:44.
Hi,
Use that:
Datasheet MPSA14 DARLINGTON TRANS NPN:
http://www.rapidonline.com/netalogue/specs/81-0142.pdf
Best regards,
Luciano
Thanx for pointing that one out. Its nice and cheap too.
I do still have a few questions though. I dont want to just use the one you picked, i want to understand why you picked that one.
I see in the datasheet Collector-Emitter Voltage: 30V and Collector Current: 500mA so i guess thats one of the first things i should check. Both of those value must be equal to or greater than the requirement for the load.
Is it the Base-Emitter On Voltage that says how many volts you need to put into the base to make it turn fully on?
Why did you use the 10K and 100K resistors? The 100K looks to be a simple grounding resistor that keeps the base grounded while there is no input from the PIC. The PIC im using (and i thought all pics) grounded output pins when you set them to low. In this case would i still need that resistor?
Where you have put the 10K i normally have a 1K or nothing at all. I assume its to limit the current that gets to the base but how do you know what value resistor to use?
Yes that is usefull. I think im using the type of regulators they mentioned (the bad ones). The plan was to use a 12V one for the LEDs and a 5V one for the rest of the circuit. It will help picking the correct resistors for the different colors too (each color uses different amounts of amps and volts)
The lights im making are actually like spotlights so i would have thought a 15 degree angle should be fine. There is a directivity diagram in the datasheet Im not sure if thats what you mean. I can try and compare it with some other LEDs i already have but the best thing is probably to buy a few and turn them on
I do have a multimeter and now a PC oscilloscope. I had to use them a lot while getting a test circuit working with the origional multicolor LEDs
I see what your saying about the transistors. I did have some running with the old LEDs though and they seemed to be fine. They did start getting a little hot so i turned my PSU down a little. They cooled back down and continued to run for about 2 hours with no noticable temperature increase. I will order some mosfets instead though just to be on the safe side.
I think what im going to do is try to figure out exactly what mosfets and resistors i need etc for those LEDs then buy a few and see how they work
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