Ok, I have found that it is leaking voltage somehow when the pin is told to go low. I tried reversing the pin state to a input instead of lowing it, but it will not flash the LED at all when i do that. So basicly high LED : PAUSEUS 60000 : REVERSE LED will not make it flash.
Anything I am missing that would cause me no to be able to change the state of that pin?
Ok, if this thing pisses me off any more, I have the option to move to a 18F2221 or 18F4321.
How to I put RA0,RA1,RA2,RA3, RB0,RB1, and RB3 as inputs?
The rest need to be outputs and go HIGH but a couple may need to be flipped to inputs for one reason or another. All inputs and outputs must be digital.
The 18F is a huge pic that I have absolutely no experience with (and I am only intermediate with 16F and 12F series).
RA 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
see bits below
Code:TrisA =%00001111 ' RA 0:3 as inputs RA 4:7 as outputs in binary OR TrisA = $0F ' same thing in HEX or TrisA = 15 ' same thing in DECIMAL TrisB = %00001011 ' PortB 0,1,3 as inputs
I like binary because it is easy to see at a glance, 1s are inputs, 0s are outputs
Edit: Doh!, Port calls hi / low status of output, TRIS register determines Input/Output
Last edited by Archangel; - 18th August 2008 at 00:55.
If you do not believe in MAGIC, Consider how currency has value simply by printing it, and is then traded for real assets.
.
Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, barter is the money of peasants - but debt is the money of slaves
.
There simply is no "Happy Spam" If you do it you will disappear from this forum.
Setting Tris registers isn't the problem. It's making sure that the inputs are "digital" and the outputs are setup right.
18F's use the ADCON0, ADCON1 to select pins as digital but it doesn't seem to be working for me.
I am more concerned with getting the 16F883 working properly because atleast that series I am decent with.
As you can see, I like binary too. Way easier to understand atleast for me.
Bookmarks