Jeez, go get your lollipop or soother.
Jeez, go get your lollipop or soother.
Last edited by Ted's; - 27th July 2008 at 10:42.
Egads! You must be using lead free solder to get results like that. Funny thing about tin is it grows whiskers. Do you have a 3 terminal resonator ? At this point I would probably bend the 2 legs of the PIC associated to the OSC. and attach them to a resonator with a point to point ground wire, or use an external OSC. Check the 2 pins of the board with PIC removed for capacitance, I would bet it is loading down the PIC's OSC until it does not work. Why would it run once ? Maybe in initializing it gets more power than after it starts. I am thinking there is such low impedance on the OSC circuit that it does not run.
If you do not believe in MAGIC, Consider how currency has value simply by printing it, and is then traded for real assets.
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Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, barter is the money of peasants - but debt is the money of slaves
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There simply is no "Happy Spam" If you do it you will disappear from this forum.
Get some breadboard and stick your PIC on that. Your circuit MAY have worked before, but solder dries up after a while. It may be worth your while re-soldering (neatly) every join you've made on that board and starting again. The circuit you want to build......it's SOOOOOO easy, but you have made it sooooooo complicated.
TRY the following. With your multimeter check the outputs on PORTB.7 , PORTB.4, PORTB.6, PORTA.0, PORTB.0, PORTA.5, but check them ON THE CHIP. This will discard hardware error. If your PIC is programmed as per previous posts, then you will get 5V on these outputs - albeit for just half a second. It may be worth your while making that program a loop so your LED's oscilate between OFF and ON and not just ON for 500mS. That really doesn't help you none.
IF you have 5V on all those pins above, your PCB needs to be re-done. It may work for programming, but...........
IF you have breadboard, then do the following. 5V on pins 4 and 14, GND on pin 5, your XTAL on pins 15 and 16, the ANODE of your LED's on PINS 13, 12, 4, 17 and 6, the CATHODES connected to GND via a 4k7 resistor. You will need nothing else for this to work (for now). Don't bother with your reset switch just yet. Get the basics going first.
AND SKI, it's not just the sugar that will decay your teeth, the acid from your saliva will eat through the enamal and calcium, so use a calcium replacing toothpaste. I personally like the green lollipops best
Last edited by gringobomba14; - 27th July 2008 at 10:49.
Dude, get a life.The circuit you want to build......it's SOOOOOO easy, but you have made it sooooooo complicated.
I've gotta say Ted, you ask for help, and when we actually try to give it, you diss us off. Did you expect that we would drop everything and just run over to your house and make it work? I'm sorry mate, but I think you have no concept of how help is given. I took to time to MAKE your circuit on breadboard, make it work, then write you how to do it, and your reply is "Get a life". I would say this to you. UNSUBSCRIBE, you are not worth the effort
You see, if you had worked on your manners when it comes to respect you wouldn't have created it ineffectually.
Because that's the way his program is written...
But the circuit/program is so far beyond the basics!!!
And I'm sure it's not doing the wires and brackets any good eitherAND SKI, it's not just the sugar that will decay your teeth, the acid from your saliva will eat through the enamal and calcium, so use a calcium replacing toothpaste. I personally like the green lollipops best(I wish there was a little green smiley face with braces out there somewhere)
The circuitry is actually far beyond basics. There is even a IR receiver + software decoding included aswell as some other modern items.
I excluded anything being unimportant for this issue.
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