Automatic Toilet Flusher

[Pic_User]

Techbuilder,

How about:
You order the Sharp IS471FE and start the program right away, while you are waiting.

You can substitute a switch.

When the IS471FE gets there you can just add it.

This is actually a good way to build and test as you go.

-Adam-

[Techbuilder]

That's a good idea


thanks Pic_User

[Techbuilder]

Something is wrong with my proximity sensor

When I was done setting up the circuit on this website my led was on constanly

http://www.g9toengineering.com/AllSa...dproximity.htm

Here's some pictures of my bread board

[Techbuilder]

Here's the data sheet, I think the people that design the circuit got the pins wrong

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datashee...RP/IS471F.html

I don't know maybe you can help me out

[mackrackit]

Can not see very well from your pictures, but it looks like the cap is connected to the IR and can not tell where the LED is connected.

Make sure every thing is like it is on the last page of the data sheet.

[Pic_User]

Hi Techbuilder,

Nice job building all of that.
The layout and diode orientation is good.
Glad to see the little light blockers on the back side of the LEDs.
What type of IR diodes did you use?

It looks like the diagram on the webpage agrees with the data sheet.

Picture 3 looks like only the electrolytic capacitor is attached to pin 1 of the device.
Is there a hidden wire from device pin 1 to V+ or is it missing?

Also:
I don’t know why but, IR “Emitters” seem to have a different convention from the visible LEDs.
The shorter lead is the Anode (+) positive polarity. Not like normal LED.

-Adam-

[Techbuilder]

Why thank you

No there is no wire going to the positive, except that it is on the same row as pin 1
should I connect it to positive?

in his picture there was no wire going from the cap to positive.

Also when I take the IR LEDS out the Green led is still on constant

The IR LEDs are the ones that were put on the site
they are Fairchild QED234 Infrared LEDs that I purchased from digi key.

The only things that I used different was the radial electrolytic cap instead of the ceramic.
But it was still rated at 0.33uf

[Techbuilder]

I got it to work!!!!!!!!!

Although I got to adjust the ms because it only moves like 3mm but it should be done soon!


Ps I found out what was wrong

The servo was not connected right to the pic
I had the postive going to the pic pin and the signal was going to positive
I got the new servo in and now all I have todo is make some adjustments in the software

So you will here from me soon

[Techbuilder]

Sorry guys I haven't put any information up
I got ripped off by this online company

http://www.e-clec-tech.com

Never got the servos and they were way over priced

but it was a lesson learned.

I had to re order the servos but this time it is from amazon so this time I should receive my item.

Also I have the flu and I have been in bed for a week
it sucks but I will get better.

As for the cap

It is connected to pin 1 and 3 of the IR IC which is in the schematic

[Techbuilder]

It is not connected
the only thing that it is connected is to the IR receiver which it needs to be

[JohnnyV]

Hey everyone, I've been working on a very similar project (also my first PIC only project), before I even discovered this thread. I'm having a problem getting my servo to move 90 degrees. I'm using a parallax standard servo (left over from my Basic Stamp days), which is based on a futabu (http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod...s/stdservo.pdf).

I tried using the code that Bruce posted, but the servo only moves about 10 degrees each time the move loop is called. I also tried using a modified version of the BS2 code in the pdf I linked, but I get the same result. How can I get my servo to move the full 90 degrees?

Here is the code I'm using:

@ __config _INTOSC_OSC_NOCLKOUT &_WDT_ON &_PWRTE_ON &_MCLRE_OFF &_BODEN_ON &_CP_OFF &_DATA_CP_OFF &_MCLRE_OFF


servo1 var Porta.0
x var byte

		low servo1
		HIGH PORTB.3
	
loop:	pause 500
		low portb.3
		pause 500
		high portb.3
		GOTO move
		pause 2000
		low portb.3
		GOTO loop

move:	for x = 200 to 1200
   		pulsout servo1,x
   		pause 18
		next x
  		pause 2000
  		return

I have the LED blink so I can be sure that I know the program is working properly and I can tell when the servo should be moving.

Thanks for the help in advance!

BTW, I'm making the project because I have a cat that is toilet trained, not because room mates don't flush