Unless it is a course requirement, I suggest you use shift registers CD4094 to latch the states of the LEDs. For 24 LEDs you need 3 x 4094 devices; and they are dirt cheap. So, why struggle?
Unless it is a course requirement, I suggest you use shift registers CD4094 to latch the states of the LEDs. For 24 LEDs you need 3 x 4094 devices; and they are dirt cheap. So, why struggle?
Well,
I'm still working on a "Knight Rider" stoplight...
Because of a extremely narrow space availability inside the original stoplight, I can't add lots of components to the circuit.
The LEDs have to be powerfull enough to look like, at least, the original bulbs.
I have made a prototype with "common" LEDs and it works well BUT it is far to weak (... and I have made it with yellow LEDs witch makes it unsuable as stoplight).
<img src="http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1972&stc=1&d=118910210 0">
I connected the LEDs like hereunder but this is not longer possible because of the use of transistors (btw this is just the LED connection part). The "curious" disposition of LEDs in this shematic allows me to switch-ON two consecutive LEDs and improve the fluency wipe effect - but this is another story.
<img src="http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1973&stc=1&d=118910225 7">
I couldn't find SMD transistors (at DISTRELEC for those who now this supplier) without built-in resistors so I thought it is a common thing (?).
Hope this helps a little...
Last edited by flotulopex; - 6th September 2007 at 19:30.
Roger
Hi Roger,
Here are two complementary transistors from www.distrelec.ch.
Best regards,
Luciano
==============================================
Distrelec Art.No: 610375
Type BC 817-40 (NPN SOT-23, 500mA)
Datasheet:
http://www.nxp.com/acrobat_download/...7W_BC337_5.pdf
==============================================
Distrelec Art.No: 611585
Type BC 807-40 (PNP SOT-23, 500mA)
Datasheet:
http://www.nxp.com/acrobat_download/...7W_BC327_5.pdf
==============================================
Last edited by Luciano; - 6th September 2007 at 19:54.
Luciano,
Je dois avoir les yeux dans mes poches, c'est pas possible autrement!
Nevertheless, it looks not possible to control the LEDs the way I thought I could...
Roger
Hi Roger,
Try that:
If you use standard LEDs, replace the 22 Ohm resistors with 100 Ohm resistors.
Best regards,
Luciano
EDIT: The note about the resistors is only if you use this circuit.
To drive two standard LEDs (max 20 mA) you don't need transistors.
Last edited by Luciano; - 6th September 2007 at 21:21.
20 LED's,... 20 Transistors, 20 Resistors. Start adding diodes, half-watt resistors.... Yuck!
I think I'd just go with 3 of these
<table><tr><td><a href="http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/6277/6277.pdf"><img src="http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1974&stc=1&d=118911366 1"></a></td><td>
Don't even need resistors on each LED.
Up to 24V for LED drive.
Set it for 50ma constant current.
Shiftout the LED states
And that's it.
</td></tr></table>
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Produ.../6277/6277.pdf
About $1.50 each in single quantities.
<br><br>
DT
One problem I see with Luciano's suggested circuit is that the two 22-ohm resistors form a voltage divider (!) pulling a maximum of 114 mA (5 volts / 44 ohms = 0.114 amps) when the LEDs are doing nothing. 10 channels of this is 10 x 114 mA = 1.14 amps.
Russ
N0EVC, xWB6ONT, xWN6ONT
"Easy to use" is easy to say.
Hi Russ,
The circuit is for the brake light of a car, so the circuit gets the power
only when the brake pedal is pressed. Also consider that power is generated
by the alternator, so this current will also decelerate the car when the driver
activates the brakes ...
Best regards,
Luciano
As said, the first board I made was fitted with standard leds (picture in post #12).
But, following a good old swiss habit, I observe and think how to make things even better... and get into trouble.
Frankly, I thought this kind of question would have been common, maybe even boring.
A few days ago, I made a second prototype where I used my SMD NPN's and paired the leds. The visual effect is quite good (will make a video).
Now, if I have to make a third board with MOSFETs, this won't be so terrible (the iron is still hot).
And, please remember Leonardo Da VINCI: he invented so many things but built so few. I try to balance and do the opposite
Many many thanks to all.
NB: "Swiss precision" is not a legend and if you have a closer look to a chocolate bar, you'll notice that even the hazel nuts are lined-up! And yes, I'm a musician.
Roger
Hey Roger,
I am getting a lot of good stuff via this post and all is free.
But, going back to your original issue, I was wondering why don't you consider using something like 74HC164 ? You can use three or four I/O pins and control cascaded 74HC164 ICs for 20 LEDs.
You can set all 20 LEDs with uS of times at once.
-------------------------------------
"If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital." Napoleon Bonaparte
As you can see the image in my post#12, the led's PCB is quite small (narrow). It is ment to be put inside an existing stop-light case ("boītier" in french).
I haven't enough space to put either the µc nor the power regulator on the led's PCB; this is why I made a second PCB for the "power & µc section". It is located outside the stop-light (still inside the car but not inside the case).
Finally, and this is why this all is about, I wanted to reduce the amount of wires between those two PCBs.
Voilą.
Another general info: I made my second proto with 15° leds; this viewing angle is to small, 24° must be better.
Roger
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