Olympic Timer


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  1. #25
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    Jul 2003
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    Sorry about the delay in responding... had to find the Digicam, allocate time to take pics, then edit-out the client logo's etc etc...

    LCD1. We start off with our Control Panel with our LCD, Buttons, LED's etc all attached. Ribbon Cable plugs into main electronics located elsewhere (in our example here in the base of a IP66 rated enclosure). Yes, you can have your LCD (example in 4-bit Parallel Mode) on the end of a long Ribbon Cable. I've used 350mm without any problems.

    LCD2. That's the Lid from an IP66 rated enclosure. The Lid has been machined to take the LCD, Buttons, LED etc etc. You attach your Control Panel to the back of this Lid. Ribbon Cable plugs into the electronics secured in the base.

    LCD3. A clear, self-adhesive reverse-printed flexy-acetate is overlayed on the Lid. Your silk-screen printer will advise as to the different adhesives available to make this watertight. It is Reverse-Printed so that the markings will not be rubbed-off with use. It's semi-flexible, so that you can push through to access the Buttons. Again your Silk-Screener will advise you as to the range of materials available to you. A medium-duty favourite of mine is 250 micron clear PVC. The electronics you'll note is now in the sealed enclosure with IP56 rated cable glands for entry/exit.

    LCD4. Finally, the addition of a Bezel (in this case a 18swg Steel Plate) makes it Bullet-proof. The Bezel prevents peeling or otherwise tampering with the edges of the acetate panel. The Bezel can additionally have a gasket seal around the inside edge. You can hoze-down the final assembly, stand it out in the rain, or perform whatever watersports you fancy in it's proximity. Rather than a Steel Bezel, I've also used a reverse-printed Plexiglass panel. That's also a good option where there are no Buttons, just Displays and/or LED's.

    Have fun.
    Melanie
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