Maixium voltage on a input pin


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  1. #1
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    The only problem i see with the use of the 7805 series voltage regulator is its min and max operating tempratures. Min of 0 deg C and max of 85 deg C is not suitable for an automotive environment. You need -40 deg C to +125 deg C.

    Try a LM2937ET-5.0 or, a LM2954AIT-5.0 if you require an output voltage tolorence of 1%. You will need i/p and o/p caps with both parts or you will see near supply voltages at the output. I have used everything from 0.1uf to 330uf at the output on both parts and it always works fine. Remember to spec your input cap with a minimum of 35v.

    Here is an example of what i am using on a tyre pressure control system for a semi:-

    LM2954AIT-5.0
    AAvid heatsink 592502B034
    input cap - 220uF 50v Panasonic EEVFK21H221P
    output cap - 330uF 25v Panasonic EEVFK1E331P

    All available from www.digikey.com

    Probably overkill but safe as houses.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmgelba View Post
    The only problem i see with the use of the 7805 series voltage regulator is its min and max operating tempratures. Min of 0 deg C and max of 85 deg C is not suitable for an automotive environment. You need -40 deg C to +125 deg C.

    Try a LM2937ET-5.0 or, a LM2954AIT-5.0 if you require an output voltage tolorence of 1%. You will need i/p and o/p caps with both parts or you will see near supply voltages at the output. I have used everything from 0.1uf to 330uf at the output on both parts and it always works fine. Remember to spec your input cap with a minimum of 35v.

    Here is an example of what i am using on a tyre pressure control system for a semi:-

    LM2954AIT-5.0
    AAvid heatsink 592502B034
    input cap - 220uF 50v Panasonic EEVFK21H221P
    output cap - 330uF 25v Panasonic EEVFK1E331P

    All available from www.digikey.com

    Probably overkill but safe as houses.


    Sadly the LM2954AIT is not longer available at DigiKey, I checked both the Canadian and US pages, even for LM2954 without success. (I just checked for the LM2937 and it is available)

    Gonna search and see what else they have with automotive specs.


    EDIT: It's not obvious searching for a voltage regulator for an automotive application on DigiKey, it's not part of the description. The fact that each manufacturer uses a different naming standard for the part series does not help either.

    Also, using a 5V voltage regulator isn't going to help my case. I'd like to sense signals from various sensors on an old car, they are fed from the 12V battery. Even if I can lower the VREF from 12V to 5V, I won't be able to use the same technique for the signal from the sensor which can vary between 0-12V.
    Last edited by Demon; - 21st April 2008 at 06:42.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmgelba View Post
    The only problem i see with the use of the 7805 series voltage regulator is its min and max operating tempratures. Min of 0 deg C and max of 85 deg C is not suitable for an automotive environment. You need -40 deg C to +125 deg C.

    Try a LM2937ET-5.0 or, a LM2954AIT-5.0 if you require an output voltage tolorence of 1%. You will need i/p and o/p caps with both parts or you will see near supply voltages at the output. I have used everything from 0.1uf to 330uf at the output on both parts and it always works fine. Remember to spec your input cap with a minimum of 35v.

    Here is an example of what i am using on a tyre pressure control system for a semi:-

    LM2954AIT-5.0
    AAvid heatsink 592502B034
    input cap - 220uF 50v Panasonic EEVFK21H221P
    output cap - 330uF 25v Panasonic EEVFK1E331P

    All available from www.digikey.com

    Probably overkill but safe as houses.
    L78L05AB -40 to 125 C.
    http://www.alldatasheet.com/datashee...ICS/78L05.html
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    Wink The KISS Method.

    Hi,

    There's the other way ...

    use what's inside the Pic ... the clamp diodes !!! just use a series resistor to limit input current to 10-20µA ( 500µA max continuous ... )

    see AN521c for direct mains ( ! ) to Pic interfacing. That's OFFICIAL !

    and if you want ... add 2x 1N4148 diodes parallelled to the clamping diodes !!!

    no need regulators or complex circuitry !!!

    Alain
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acetronics View Post
    Hi,

    There's the other way ...

    use what's inside the Pic ... the clamp diodes !!! just use a series resistor to limit input current to 10-20µA ( 500µA max continuous ... )

    see AN521c for direct mains ( ! ) to Pic interfacing. That's OFFICIAL !

    and if you want ... add 2x 1N4148 diodes parallelled to the clamping diodes !!!

    no need regulators or complex circuitry !!!

    Alain


    Merci Alain.

    Ok:

    - 2 parallel 5M resistors on the input pin (AN521 suggested a backup just in case).
    - a pair of backup diodes on the input pin as well.

    And now the noob question, the PIC will be powered by a 5V circuit, the signal from the sensor is powered on a 12V circuit, where do the backup diodes go to? The 12V cicuit or the 5V circuit?

    The clamping diodes within the PIC go the the 5V circuit, I would assume the backup would go to the same place, just want to be sure.

    This would greatly simplify my life 'cause it gets real complicated real quick trying to use op amps like the LM239, I got that idea from another tutorial.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  6. #6
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Merci Alain.

    Ok:

    - 2 parallel 5M resistors on the input pin (AN521 suggested a backup just in case).
    - a pair of backup diodes on the input pin as well.

    And now the noob question, the PIC will be powered by a 5V circuit, the signal from the sensor is powered on a 12V circuit, where do the backup diodes go to? The 12V cicuit or the 5V circuit?

    The clamping diodes within the PIC go the the 5V circuit, I would assume the backup would go to the same place, just want to be sure.

    This would greatly simplify my life 'cause it gets real complicated real quick trying to use op amps like the LM239, I got that idea from another tutorial.
    Hi, Robert

    No need for 5M if 12v signal ... just (say 45v ... automobile std. "power clamping" )

    40v / 50µA .... 1M in series

    diodes are - of course- between PIC input and power rails ( 5v and gnd )

    IF using external clamp diodes, series resistor can be somewhat lowered :

    using Schottky diodes ( Vf ~ .3v ) will easily allow 1 mA, (the internal clamping diodes won't have to conduct, then ... )

    so, the resistor could be as low as 47k ... limiting input noise capture !!!

    Alain
    Last edited by Demon; - 4th October 2016 at 16:54.
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    Why insist on using 32 Bits when you're not even able to deal with the first 8 ones ??? ehhhhhh ...
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    certainly the answer is " RTFM " or " RTFDataSheet " !!!
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  7. #7
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    I'm reading the app note again and the part about alternating voltage bugs me. It says that "a 115 VAC 60 cycle sine wave will traverse from 0 to 2V in 32ms", what about 12VDC? Wouldn't that be on instantly so to speak? The car alternator may work with AC but it distributes DC to the car electrical system.

    The other thing is the clamping diodes, they shut off over VDD and below VSS. That's fine to protect the PIC but that would interfere with my application. The car sensor works on 12V, I can't just stop measuring at 5V, I need "see" the remaining 7 volts or else I will get only a partial reading?

    Let's use the fuel gauge as an example, the fuel tank would read from empty up to 40% full or so and then the meter would top out, no?

    The only thing I can think of it to divide the car voltage by 4 and do the same thing with the signal voltage. That way I won't be comparing apples and oranges and I will be able to use the PIC ADC properly. My car battery is about 12.? charged and 14.? with the alternator charging. Let's use 16V as a maximum in case of a surge, divide by 4, that brings it down to 4V, well within the 5V limit of the PIC. I can still place a safety diode on top of that to protect at 5V too.

    EDIT: Oh, and that spare 1V translates into another 4V buffer, that means it would be safe up to an absolute maximum 20VDC.
    Last edited by Demon; - 21st April 2008 at 09:45.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  8. #8
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    Wink

    Hi, Robert

    I think we mixed DIGITAL and ANALOG inputs ...

    here you want 0 > 12 v to be 0 > 5 v !!!

    so, you need a voltage DIVIDER ...

    see Darrel's site for such an application :

    http://www.pbpgroup.com/modules/wfse...p?articleid=25

    Everything explained ...

    Alain
    ************************************************** ***********************
    Why insist on using 32 Bits when you're not even able to deal with the first 8 ones ??? ehhhhhh ...
    ************************************************** ***********************
    IF there is the word "Problem" in your question ...
    certainly the answer is " RTFM " or " RTFDataSheet " !!!
    *****************************************

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acetronics View Post
    Hi, Robert

    I think we mixed DIGITAL and ANALOG inputs ...

    here you want 0 > 12 v to be 0 > 5 v !!!

    so, you need a voltage DIVIDER ...

    see Darrel's site for such an application :

    http://www.pbpgroup.com/modules/wfse...p?articleid=25

    Everything explained ...

    Alain

    Yup, the signals from the sensors will be analog. Interesting tool, I added it to my favourites. There is a comment at the bottom of that page that puzzles me though:

    "Do not use the Zener diode (D1) for analog circuits. It will adversely affect the readings.
    It can be useful for protection of Digital Inputs though."

    So, since I've lowered the voltage to an acceptable level for the PIC, then there should not be any need for extra clamping diodes, no?
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

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