Ooops, just to clarify, that 24V is the title of that schematic.
I will be using 12V wall adapters, maybe even 9V to minimize heat (if I can find a good deal).
My circuits are exclusively 5V.
So far I have:
- 3 LED strips consuming about 175mA (525mA)
- 4 LCDs consuming about 130mA, datasheets are vague, just received some samples for testing (520mA)
- 21 conventional LEDs (420mA)
So about 1500mA, but I don't like running components at peak. I prefer to run stuff at 50% at the most, ideally 20-30%.
Without intense searches, 12V 3A goes for $6, 12V 5A goes for nearly double at $12:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859196804.html
I will be making a RFQ on Alibaba later; they tend to be 5-10 times less, but you have to buy more.
Last edited by Demon; - 8th August 2024 at 20:57.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Short answer, yes, probably. I only got it working on contrast so far.
The top left pot controls contrast.
I used a 2N2222A transistor with 100R resistor on base (yeah, forgot my pull-up resistor, although I'm going to change that to pull-down).
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Last edited by Demon; - 12th August 2024 at 22:22.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
If you replace the 2222 with a MosFet, then the 100 ohm resistor is OK. But for an NPN bipolar, I think it is too low! A 1K to 4k7, depending on the Ic current and the Hfe of the transistor would be better. You will feed too much current into the base junction.
Also the 10K is not needed there, as the PWM singnal is a 0-5 volt.
Better use a N-MosFet for the control, to have a very low ON resistance and almost negligible power loss.
Ioannis
LCD model 2004A V1.3
White text on blue background
Contrast:
- 2N2222A NPN with 1K on base
- 0.20mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (recommended)
- 0.46mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (maximum with 5K pot)
Backlight:
- 34mA direct 5V
- 2N2907 PNP with 1K on base
- 5mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (recommended for night)
- 15mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (recommended for day)
- 34mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (maximum)
CURRENT ON BASE:
Contrast:
- 1.5mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (recommended)
- 3.8mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (maximum)
Backlight:
- 0.5mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (recommended)
- 4.0mA with PWM @ 1953 frequency (maximum)
Last edited by Demon; - 13th August 2024 at 02:39.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
As long as you have the same module you will be ok.
I think I use the same one from Ali express. About 3.5€
Ioannis
That's the thing. These are from AliExpress so I can do initial testing.As long as you have the same module you will be ok
I'm waiting for a manufacturer to send an order of samples. It's the same product, but the version might be different, and it's not the same colours (that might have an impact on current).
It looks promising, but I still have to repeat these tests with the final product, just to be sure.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
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