(post removed, because I can't tell the difference between a circuit that provides power to PIC, and a circuit that provides power while relying on PWM from a PIC)
![]()
(post removed, because I can't tell the difference between a circuit that provides power to PIC, and a circuit that provides power while relying on PWM from a PIC)
![]()
Last edited by Demon; - 7th August 2024 at 19:51.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
I'm currently using these buck converters to drop from 12V from wall adapter down to 5V:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0B5GQTS64/
These go for $2 each and they are only rated at max 3A with warning to remain under 2.5A.
Last edited by Demon; - 7th August 2024 at 19:53.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
I would not trust those chinese modules for serious projects. Rather design your own based on the TI or Microchip App. Notes for you specific needs.
The modules are just bad copies of western know chips with too cheap inductors and capacitors.
From various module test I did, some were so bad that on power up they just burned(!) others worked ok with a lot of noise and ripple, and all those that worked are way to lower on power output in relation to the advertised power.
Ioannis
A lot of those converter circuits look like they were done in some cave. This one looks surprisingly well done:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001629723875.html
The 5V pro variety comes down to $0.69ea in packs of 20.
I'm going to look for those app notes.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Ooops, just to clarify, that 24V is the title of that schematic.
I will be using 12V wall adapters, maybe even 9V to minimize heat (if I can find a good deal).
My circuits are exclusively 5V.
So far I have:
- 3 LED strips consuming about 175mA (525mA)
- 4 LCDs consuming about 130mA, datasheets are vague, just received some samples for testing (520mA)
- 21 conventional LEDs (420mA)
So about 1500mA, but I don't like running components at peak. I prefer to run stuff at 50% at the most, ideally 20-30%.
Without intense searches, 12V 3A goes for $6, 12V 5A goes for nearly double at $12:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859196804.html
I will be making a RFQ on Alibaba later; they tend to be 5-10 times less, but you have to buy more.
Last edited by Demon; - 8th August 2024 at 20:57.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Short answer, yes, probably. I only got it working on contrast so far.
The top left pot controls contrast.
I used a 2N2222A transistor with 100R resistor on base (yeah, forgot my pull-up resistor, although I'm going to change that to pull-down).
![]()
Last edited by Demon; - 12th August 2024 at 22:22.
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Well, that's disappointing. I looked only at Mouser, the IC alone is over $6 and most of the discrete components are not available. I don't know enough if I can replace them with components.
8V–24V to 5V/3A Buck Converter, through-hole, Page 7
https://www.microchip.com/content/da.../AN15-APID.pdf
And the SMD designs had a LOT less power (my first choice, to have them fully assembled by JLCPCB). Microchip's app note dates from March 2001, gonna check out TI...
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Another idea would be to use a low drop linear regulator for 5 volt and use the cheap switch mode ones to lower the 24 volts down to 6-7 volts. That way power losses on the low drop would be minimal and still you will have good quality noise free 5v line.
Ioannis
Bookmarks