B3F-4055 switch bounce


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  1. #1
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    If any actuator has metalic case, it is wise that case to be earthed. Metals tend to work like touch sensors or antennas if not properly earthed.

    Ioannis

    The MR0102 toggle on the right has a support bracket with 4 pins. I can easily ground those.

    The SR25 SP4T on the left has no such pins.

    Name:  MR0102 pins VS SR25 pins.jpg
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    I suppose I could pass an eyelet connector over the shaft and fix with a nut and then ground the wire to the PCB mounting screws. I have about 1cm of room under the knob; more than plenty for the plastic enclosure.

    That will be a concern on the RV17 rotary pot; the shaft is short and I don't have much thread space. :/
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    Maybe you can solder a wire on the SR25 metals. With patience I have to say...

    Ioannis

  3. #3
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    I'm thinking of leaving open pads under the 2 crimps on both sides.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    Quote Originally Posted by Ioannis View Post
    Maybe you can solder a wire on the SR25 metals. With patience I have to say...

    Ioannis

    I was shopping for laser engravers to etch white text on black PLA and saw that a machine to cut thin steel plate would be expensive.

    I started thinking of glueing aluminium foil onto a thin plastic sheet, and then using the mini-CNC to mill the sheet to fit inside the enclosure cover. That way the metal switches would touch against the aluminium foil, and then ground that. It might act as a EMI shield inwards and outwards, maybe.

    Anything thin and conductive could do the job, not just aluminium. It's just a matter of finding something that is workable, and inexpensive, aluminium foil is just so readily available here.


    EDIT: I can't believe I didn't think of this right away. Single-sided copper-clad PCBs are readily available and can be milled to fit. I just need to find a cheap and reliable source (haven't checked yet).
    Last edited by Demon; - 1st February 2024 at 06:06.
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    I just saw copper mesh on Amazon, which got me thinking about going even much simpler. Just snaking a bare copper wire along the inside of the enclosure cover. I only have to touch the metal surface on the switches.

    No machining, just hot glue and a connector at the end to bring it back to GND. Cheap and easy implemented. I just won't be getting any structural strength or shielding. :/
    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    In general the SR25 and other alike pots etc, are supposed to be mounted on a metal surface which is grounded by default.

    Maybe you can do the same. On the plastic enclosure have a thin aluminum face, cut in you CNC. Then you may do also lettering and drop silkscreen ink in the engraving. The latter will require thicker metal sheet though.

    Ioannis

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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    I'm leaning more towards snaking a bare wire along the inside of the enclosure cover. It'll do the job of grounding all the metal components, and it's cheap and without serious machine labour.

    I've also been thinking a lot about how to get lettering on the front. My first idea was engraving acrylic sheets and backlighting with LEDs, but I've already got a LOT on my plate as it is.

    So I found out you can etch into PLA without any special hardware or material. An diode laser engraver "should' do the job (I need to do more research).

    It's a matter of testing settings. This guy is using a 30 watt machine at 20%; that's only 6 watts. I'm looking at 20 watt machines, since 10 watts doesn't leave a wide margin.

    My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.

    Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: B3F-4055 switch bounce

    And how exactly are the lettering painted white on the black PLA?

    This looks very nice.

    Ioannis

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