New project - MSFS C++ USB interface

[Demon]

...I suppose the LED is between 4th and 5th button, right? Can you 3D print transparent plastic guide?

Ioannis

Yup, and yup.

It's not even worth making molds to pour plastic light pipes. Since this is so small, I can 3D print a whole batch in no time.

Clear ABS:
https://www.amazon.ca/Gizmo-Dorks-Fi...dp/B00GU2FZQQ/

Clear polycarbonate:
https://www.amazon.ca/Polymaker-Fila...9KKMLKRF/?th=1

Clear PETG:
https://www.amazon.ca/OVERTURE-Filam...dp/B07SB761QR/


It's not worth using PLA, it won't survive UV light. At the moment I'm leaning towards ABS because of cost, but polycarbonate is the clear winner according to google.

[Demon]

I've been playing with FreeCad; testing different ways to align the holes for the connections to the controller board. I finally got the splice tool working properly (I didn't want to watch videos ).




I reproduced the controller, with clearances under the board for protruding pins, areas for fasteners and added flares to the front of the 4 connectors. This is a lot easier, I can relocate the controller as I want, and generate new holes on the fly.

[Demon]

Turn out I can print the main parts in one piece. I'm pushing the limits of my Ender 3 S1 Plus, but in theory "it should work". The parts should have enough rigidity to withstand the stresses of being printed at an angle. I just need to add supports.

Case front is pretty much finished. I just have to add rounded edges and a bezel, but I'm only adding them last. FreeCad is a pain with those when you make slight alterations to the shape (probably cause I don't know all the minute intricacies of updating in FreeCad).




Nearly finished the interior brace. I just have to add attachment points for a VESA-spec mount in the center.




Just got the back panel to design, that's probably the simplest of all 3.

[Ioannis]

Never thought of that, printing to an angle so it can fit in the area!

I like this thread more and more!

Ioannis

[Demon]

You just like me for my pictures...

[Demon]

45deg was too shallow, 50deg was too tall, 47.5deg was just right under the upper limit, and fit within caution area on bed.




Print time is not realistic. This was done with a 10mm thick triangle, just to test for best print angle.

[Demon]

Sometimes when you make support panels, they might not have a lot of detail and it's not always apparent which way is which.

So I add little alignment markers to help me when I assemble it for a print (like on these supports).