New project - MSFS C++ USB interface

[Ioannis]

At this size, maybe wood is an option for the prototype?

I saw Smooth-On silicon which is very exciting! But for an enclosure too much of work I guess.

Ioannis

[Demon]

I like wood, but it's a bit too bulky for what I had in mind. The prototype has to be thin, or else it's going to cost a lot of liquid plastic to pour each enclosure. I could use other medium, like plexiglass and superglue; that's my backup plan. I'd have relatively thin walls and a smooth surface, with a minimal strength. I'm just not keen on using superglue.

I'm looking at making the prototype on the 3D printer; most likely in 2 parts. That way I can have thin walls but keep a relatively high level of precision in dimensions. The other nice thing, is that modifying and restarting is just a matter of editing in FreeCad. With wood, you have to start again, same with all other "manual medium".

[Demon]

I drew up a basic frame, just to get an idea of what I'm facing; 15 hours, and there's no fasteners or anything.




The panel with all the holes was just a temporary support, since I have to print it an at angle on the printer. I'm still missing screws around the perimeter, and braces to hold it at an angle (I make my own, less waste, and they're signed specifically for the print). So I might be facing about 25 hours at regular speed on my printer for a complete front frame.

Then I have to print a honeycomb spacer for rigidity (maybe 10mm thick), and a backside with all the screws and required connector openings. I'm guesstimating at least 50 hours of printing for an enclosure prototype.

And this is why I'm considering a multi-part design. I could print it flat and wouldn't need to print all those supports. I'd have an annoying joint down the center, but I could live with that if I had to.

[Ioannis]

Whatever you choose for the prototype, it needs a lot of time.

At least with 3D you have freedom to do anything you like.

Keep on!

Ioannis

[Demon]

Like this:




I print 2 of these, rotate one around, and the pin at the bottom end will fit into the slot on the far right end:




Under 5 hours to print a single piece this way, so a total of 10 hours, no waste of supports, the face plate is essentially finished and a lot less time.

I just have to cover that joint with finishing putty, sand, prime, and I should be good to pour a silicone mold over it.


EDIT: Those 2 50-50 holes down the center are bugging me. I'll probably slide the bottom hole over to the left, and shorten the top beam. That way it'll be complete, no loose screw to jiggle about (in case I end up with a bad mold cavity).

[Demon]

Version 2:

- I made the alignment tab & slot longer, to help the frame glue perfectly straight.

- I only did drill marks for the cover screws. I'm using M3 self-tapping screws, I had problems making molds for small screws in the past. I just have to pass the frames under a dremel drill press to make the complete 2.5mm DIA holes.




That center hole still bugs me. Gonna have to move it over a tad.

[richard]

are you printing in pla ?
if so what glue are you using , the only glue i find that works well is that nasty solvent based scigrip 16 [dimethylene chloride ?]
once you crack the seal it quickly dry's up in the tube no matter how diligent you are resealing it and its not cheap. i keep mine in the fridge.
super glue just unsticks and falls off after a few weeks

[Demon]

Can save a bit more time printing both halves at the same time.




I did a test print and quickly noticed something; the frame bends as it cools after being removed from the printer. I'm going to let it cool on its own on the printer next time.

(it's so light, the darn thing kept jiggling)