New project - MSFS C++ USB interface

[Demon]

This cropped up recently on arduino forum as a debounce in noisy [automotive] enviro as an effective debounce method

Yeah, I've saved an article from February 2020 about this one too:

https://www.eejournal.com/article/ul...bounce-part-3/


I had even tried it without success, but I used a breadboard and that most likely caused me a ton of bad connections. This last batch I got from AliExpress leaves a lot to be desired.

[Demon]

The reason why I'm sticking with the Hackaday design is because the front end is recommended by Bourns with their rotary encoders (page 3).

https://www.bourns.com/docs/Product-...ets/PEC11R.pdf


I figure if they can recommend this design with their products, it's gotta have some merit when you consider how easily liability lawsuits get thrown around in the US.

Unless I'm mistaken, the Elliot Williams design from Hackaday that I'm using is exactly the same, but with the Schmitt Trigger added at the back end.


About that other technique of just storing the state in a bunch of bits, and then checking for a "clean press", Elliot encountered a problem with a "janky button".

https://hackaday.com/2015/12/10/embe...i/#more-180185

[Ioannis]

If a button has serious problem, it has to be replaced.

The usual, normal behavior of a metal contact switch is to bounce a few ms and then settle. That is why a 10ms debounce is most recommended. More may be better if you can spare the time, either in software or hardware.

In your case, with so many buttons, you will be using too many components. All these can be just fine be replaced with a few more lines of code for free. And with less posibility for a component or soldering it ot pcb to fail.

Ioannis

[Demon]

One issue that's been a thorn in my side since day 1 was how to engrave text on the enclosure. One of the easiest ways was to use double-layer ABS engraving sheets like this and engrave text with a mini-CNC or laser:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07QT93LN9/

My problem was how to have a nice finish along the edges, cause you can see the white backing. I doubt I could get paint to match, and thin moldings would not go on straight. I finally got a breakthrough today; I print my own 1-piece molding, but with alignment pegs.



In theory I should have a decent enclosure front panel. And best of all, I'm not getting these sheets from Amazon any more, I just got a waaaay better price straight from the manufacturer. And they will cut the sheets to my exact specs, I don't have to trim, so less waste and lower costs.

And even better, the sales rep said they can customize everything about my order. I can get semi-opaque backing of the colour of my choice. I just slap some LEDs in the enclosure behind the text and VOILA! Instant backlighting.

This is such a relief. I didn't want my case to look DIY that much; a professional look helps customer confidence in your product.

[PCzar3]

Nice project you have going Demon. I have used this company before at work and have had great results.

Paul

Front Panel Creator - Front Panels

[Demon]

Wow! Those are exactly what I am aiming to get.

Only one question, is that fee just for the designing on Panel Creator, and then a separate fee from Precision Graphics?




I've made contact with a manufacturer in China for something like these, but I haven't sent any models yet for pricing.

[Demon]

I just got 2 sample LCDs from a manufacturer. Holy crapenslaque! They're even nicer than my aging Acer displays (22in and 19in at top of pic).




This is FHD 15.6in 1920x1080. It has HDMI and VGA inputs, and runs on ordinary 12V 2A power supply. If you get a USB-display adapter (maybe $25 on amazon), you don't even waste graphic card outputs.

It's freaking awesome, way better than I hoped, viewing angle is super. Way better than the crap I got on aliexpress:




Now I just have to make a case for it.