Same as TabSoft
If you could post the DipTrace files we might be able to help more.
Or a better res JPG.
BR
Andy
Same as TabSoft
If you could post the DipTrace files we might be able to help more.
Or a better res JPG.
BR
Andy
Sorry guys - hope this helps
Seems the forum re-sizes the image - I'll try something else
Nope - does the same with URL's !!
Here's a link http://micro-heli.co.uk/New%20Schematic2.jpg
Last edited by Scampy; - 9th May 2015 at 13:13.
IIRC correctly you only need the supply voltage and contrast voltage to see the square blocks on line 1.
So long as you aren’t driving the contrast with PWM (Melanie’s old trick), you should see the blocks with the chip unpopulated.
Thanks, I can read this one.
Since you had issues with the LCD before, can you give us the model number?
Really do not want to guess.![]()
Regards,
TABSoft
The only info I have is what's stamped on the back. RT204-1 (ver2.0) - uses the standard Hitachi HD44780 chipset. Closest datasheet is http://www.satistronics.com/myfiles/...CD/RT204-1.pdf
Last edited by Scampy; - 9th May 2015 at 17:32.
Hi
Looking at the circuit all looks OK for me. LSB's grounded on display, good !... For me I would have decoupled (0.1uf) around all the chips including the display. I also would have used a trimmer across 5v and 0v (5k) on the contrast (Pin 3)so as I could meddle !!
Nothing wrong in checking all connections are right way around on the board D4-D7 also RS and E, so easy to assume... "I know" I have been burned so many times.
Could be worth checking the Xtal.... Maybe just try switching to internal clock (4Megs), I have had strange things happen around crystal circuits and displays, Some of the EBay types certainly :-) .... Not just with PIC's but other Micros also.
One last thing make sure you protect your AC SSR outputs ... I love MOV's ...At least do fuse them. Good practice to fuse the the low voltage AC before the bridge also.
Hope some of this helps
Andy
Thanks for the suggestions. I will look at adding a trim pot for the contrast, and a few more decoupling caps in the mix.
Yes, I'll be fitting some chassis mounted fuse holders, or some of those C-13 type sockets with fuse built in to protect the heaters. I also slot the board under the SSR between the low voltage pins and AC pins as a safety feature too.
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