Hmmm, I hate when I feel like I'm talking to myself. LOL.Originally Posted by JDM160
Anyway, glad it worked for you, it didn't work for me...
Hmmm, I hate when I feel like I'm talking to myself. LOL.Originally Posted by JDM160
Anyway, glad it worked for you, it didn't work for me...
> Does anyone know of a good low-cost commercial programmer that can program all of the Pics?
Unfortunately your use of the two words "low cost" excludes giving any sensible answers... all the programmers I can recommend omit that from their feature list.
However, given the fact that you have some success with your PICs leads me to suspect that there is something 'marginal' in your setup. I don't know your programmer at all, but I would suggest in the first instance you put a scope on your PSU and ensure you have a constant and steady DC supply. Check the programming pin MCLR on the PIC... you should have some 13.5v on it (unless you're using Low Voltage Programming) - if this varies or drops it will cause the PIC not to program correctly. Plug-in a PIC, hit 'program' and make with the multimeter or scope...
JDM,
Did you ever replace that cable? M to F 25-pin, straight thru (not null-modem cable).
I would fix that FIRST. Even though the "hillbilly cable rig" works on some/most chips, the longer cable run might be a problem for others. Additional noise, voltage drop, etc.
I've just started getting this error too. I am using the MeLabs serial programmer on a 16F628A in circuit (which has a 0.1uF cap).
Odd, I can program a 18F2550 on the same circuit over and over again without any problem.
I have Erase Before Programming but I keep getting the same 0000 error. I must have tried at least 20 times just now.
I'll try soldering PGC/PGD real close to the PIC and see if the length of the leads (along with trace length) is at fault.
Robert
:shrug:
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
I've soldered PGC/PGD right at the 16F628A in-circuit with the same 0000 error.
I'm also using an external power supply for the circuit, the same supply I used when this was on breadboard.
I don't think this is a configuration problem either 'cause I made sure to breadboard this circuit beforehand. This was the 1st time I upgraded a 16F628 to a 16F628A and I wanted to be sure of the configuration settings.
Frustrating, and I'm sure it's not hard to fix this either...
Robert
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My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
Originally Posted by Melanie
I couldn't check MCLR so I tricked the PIC. I did READ first then PROGRAM. I got the error again, but this time it programmed after I clicked YES. I didn't really care what it programmed, as long as it went through the routine. I had something like 12.35V on MCLR according to my multimeter.
I've even tried to Erase manually first before Program, same error.
I've always used my MeLabs serial programmer, bought it new and never had problems before. Is it possibly fading? I wouldn't mind upgrading to the USB version, but I don't want to spend the money yet if that's not the problem.
I never a problem for many many PICS; 16F628, 16F877, 18F4550, 18F2550 and 16F628A, all in-circuit too. This is the 1st PIC to give me this error.
I'm not using low voltage programming either.
Robert
![]()
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
After reading the HELP from the programmer, I checked PGM and it does have 0V.
I also checked the configuration and see nothing wrong:
__config _BODEN_ON & _CP_OFF & _DATA_CP_OFF & _PWRTE_ON & _WDT_OFF & _LVP_OFF & _MCLRE_ON & _HS_OSC
This excerpt of the Help file is exactly what is happening to me:
The device programmed once, but subsequent attempts return a Code Programming Error. - The configuration setting "Low-Voltage Programming" is Enabled. This leaves the device sensitive to a signal or high condition on the low-voltage programming pin (see the Microchip datasheet). To recover from this condition, you must tie the low-voltage programming pin to ground and reprogram the device. Or the device may need to be erased before reprogramming.
Oh poop...
Robert
![]()
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
I had been using a 9V wall adapter so I upped to 12V and 15V and still had the same error.
They seemed to top at 12.9V on MCLR.
Robert
![]()
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
I tried a 10K pull-up on MCLR as stated in the programmer Help file instead of a 4K7 as in the PBP manual, same error.
I added 4K7 pull-up on PGD as described on p. 111 Figure 14-18 of the 16F628A datasheet, same error. I wasn't sure where the pull-up was supposed to go for PGC (what is 'normal connections'?) I tried a 4K7 pull-up on PGC with no difference anyways.
Robert
![]()
My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
I've recently downloaded the latest firmware for the MeLabs serial programmer. Now I always get a splash screen to see MeLabs.com for licensing, could this be related with my problem?
Robert
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My Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus is a giant paperweight that can't even be used as a boat anchor, cause I'd be fined for polluting our waterways with electronic devices.
Not as dumb as yesterday, but stupider than tomorrow!
how about the PGM pin... should be loaded to GND. 1-10k resistor works. [b[]ok i saw you already done[/b]
how about if you disconnect what is on PGD, PGC,PGM pins then, use a 100-1K resistor to gnd on PGM?
Try to place your Programmer far of your PIC...
Last edited by mister_e; - 8th August 2006 at 17:00.
Steve
It's not a bug, it's a random feature.
There's no problem, only learning opportunities.
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