Pigtail Neons :)

[pedja089]

Forget to mention, if is flyback then you need diode on output, if is single switch forward, then you need to "reset" core, and you must have an inductor on output.

[NickMu]

I’m not an expert in this field but few months ago I’ve been playing with non-contact power transfer.

I agree with the points made by Ionnis and pedja089 and add few notes of my own:

Your LC circuit and its Q factor will determine your frequency needed and your efficiency.
For the same setup your duty cycle will change the power input / output ratio drastically.
In your case you should draw no more than few tens of milliamps. If your outputs are getting hot you are drawing too much and inefficiently.
I’m not sure what kind of diagnostic tools you have on your bench but an oscilloscope and a variable frequency generator will be more than helpful. Monitor the output signal from your Mosfet with the scope and change the frequency until you get maximum output level, cleanest signal shape and minimum current draw from your power source. If you don’t have an oscilloscope just by monitoring the current draw will get you close to optimum. You want to stimulate your circuit with its resonant frequency for best results. Once you got over this step start changing the duty cycle of the driving signal with the same goals in mind. As we discuss in one of the treads I started in about two months ago you can use a low caliber PIC to create your output. Dealing with low frequencies will also give you access to a wide duty cycle range.
The shape of the signal driving your output device (try to make it as square as possible) is extremely important. The amplitude of this signal is also important. Try using TTL level Mosfets or use a Mosfet driver. The Mosfet driver made all the difference for my application and it is TTL compatible. Most of the Mosfets available have the needed diode built in.
If you are using audio type transformers your optimum frequency should be really low.

HTH

Regards,

Nick

[NickMu]

One clarification to my above reply:
If I recall it correctly older Neons used to draw less than 1mA from about 100 - 150 V supply which makes it about 100 – 150 mW per bulb in the worst case. I think that about 100K series limiting resistors were commonly used (the value of the resistor varies with the voltage). Depending on your input voltage to the converter you should draw 25 – 35 mA from 5V and 10 – 20 mA from 12V input. The estimated current draw includes generous losses in your system.

Regards,

Nick

[Art]

I just got my first scope which is why I'm doing it now.

I know it isn't right, so that's why on breadboard.
Also, I have a slightly different pair of transformers additional to what is in the picture.

Now don't laugh... it's still dual trace 25 MHz...

[Art]

Ok, I got it No heat from anything, but I'm not sure the 1N004 protection
diodes are working, I get a zap with my fingers across the backs of both of them.

It's hard to see with the video, but they are two channel software PWM,
the light is moving back and forth between the two neons.

I think the transformer primary in the original circuit was very low impedance.
It's a short on my continuity meter, it's so low. That would look bad for the MJE3055 output.

Still have to sort out this stray high voltage problem.

[Art]

pic:

[pedja089]

1N diode won't do much at higher frequency.
Try to find some UF diode, or some schottky 60V diode, 1A...
Edit:
Add a lot of decoupling capacitors(10nF,100nF)
I think that you didn't put diode right way.
It should be like this
http://i.stack.imgur.com/Oarz3.gif
You can try to put 1N4148, but it probably won't last long...

[Art]

I have used the diode like the second example on this page:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com...nsistor-switch
The first way actually prevented the neons lighting, no matter what polarity the diode across the primary.

I don't have anything other than rectifiers at the moment, but will see how I go tomorrow.