half asleep, but here is my beginning. Looking for some help here if anyone wants to help me fix this
![]()
half asleep, but here is my beginning. Looking for some help here if anyone wants to help me fix this
![]()
-Bert
The glass is not half full or half empty, Its twice as big as needed for the job!
http://foamcasualty.com/ - Warbird R/C scratch building with foam!
The cool thing of Triac is they often come short when they burn. So ask yourself if it's safe to plug it to the Main first. If the wire break... how dangerous it will be if someone try to change it LIVE.
Kinda stuff like that![]()
Steve
It's not a bug, it's a random feature.
There's no problem, only learning opportunities.
I recommend you look up the MOC3021 opto-triac to interface your triac to the PIC. Your current scheme does not seem workable.
About my schematic: The values for the resistors are just the default values. I know they are not correct. The cap for the input to the opto's, I have no idea what value this should be. Also have no idea yet as to which opto style I want for the zero crossing side of things. Maybe neither? And I see I have connected the top opto incorrectly. I ment to groung the emitter and take the signal from the collector.
@ Steve, Are you trying to remind me I need a fuse on the wire side?
@Jerson, I am under the impression using a logic Triac, with 10mA gate will work as I drew it. If I am wrong about this, feel free to tell me and I will add the opto.
@ Moderators, if this should now be moved to the schematic section, please move it. Thanks
Last edited by cncmachineguy; - 4th May 2011 at 13:55. Reason: added message to mods
-Bert
The glass is not half full or half empty, Its twice as big as needed for the job!
http://foamcasualty.com/ - Warbird R/C scratch building with foam!
Hi Bert
I was not sure I had something that I could screen-grab. But, here it is. The opto input was used with a 12V circuit, however, you may use 5V and scale the resistor accordingly.
Regards
Last edited by Jerson; - 4th May 2011 at 17:44.
If you do not believe in MAGIC, Consider how currency has value simply by printing it, and is then traded for real assets.
.
Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, barter is the money of peasants - but debt is the money of slaves
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There simply is no "Happy Spam" If you do it you will disappear from this forum.
Thanks Jerson for the schematic.
Thanks Joe for the tips, never good business to hurt the buyer. Although the wire supply will never be available from me, just too much liability to be fun. This is just for my pleasure. (never the less, no fun getting "bit")
-Bert
The glass is not half full or half empty, Its twice as big as needed for the job!
http://foamcasualty.com/ - Warbird R/C scratch building with foam!
I use the MCT6 opto-coupler a lot in 5vdc circuits.
Resistor is easy, 330R like most LED.
Very interesting read here on optos:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/optocoup.pdf
Didn't know about using a reverse diode on input side as added protection, nice:
...
In some circuits, there may be a chance that at times the driving voltage fed to the input LED could have reversed polarity (due to a swapped cable connection, for example).
This can cause damage to the device, because optocoupler LEDs tend to have quite a low reverse voltage rating: typically only 3 - 5V. So if this is a possibility, a reversed polarity diode should be connected directly across the LED...
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