StickOS

[Bruce]

Ioannis,

We'll get the PICs. It would cost you more to ship them here than the cost of the PICs.

What type of I/O hardware is going to be available? Will there be RS-232, USB, Voltage regulator, Reset button.... ect. onboard? If the schematic you are going to post looks applicable to prototyping then put me down for two.

I was planning to keep the boards as simple as possible. Like these;

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9645

http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/

Which type would everyone prefer? The layout with pins on both side, or the Sparkfun type board?

[mark_s]

Hi Bruce,

I'll vote with Walter on a BS2 style board (breadboard plugable). Put me down for two.

I am curious. For instance you want to use a LCD charactor display. We have no "LCDOUT" command. I am assuming we go retro and write subroutines like the original stamp programs or Pic Basic? I need to study the user manual and example some more.

Thanks
Mark

[ScaleRobotics]

I am curious. For instance you want to use a LCD charactor display. We have no "LCDOUT" command. I am assuming we go retro and write subroutines like the original stamp programs or Pic Basic?

It looks like you go retro, as you say. Or you can just use a serial LCD display. There are definitely some things that are not here, but it looks like it can do a lot with what it does have. Perfect for simple projects, or getting beginners into the mix. Might even pull more newcomers into upgrading to PicBasicPro, after they have the basic skills, and learned some of the logic.

Here is the quick reference guide: http://www.cpustick.com/downloads/quickref.v1.70.pdf

[wolwil]

Sounds like a good way to fry some cells, put me down for 2 if the price is right - bread board style

What are we looking at for a ballpark price???

[ScaleRobotics]

Here are some possibilities for the LED's:
Digikey 160-1414-1-ND Green 805 LED $0.12 each
Mouser EL-17-21/BHC-AN1P2/3T Blue 805 LED $0.20 each

[mackrackit]

I was planning to keep the boards as simple as possible. Like these;

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9645

http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/

Which type would everyone prefer? The layout with pins on both side, or the Sparkfun type board?

If we still have a choice and the above are the two options I think the second one would be better in the long run.

[Bruce]

OK. If everyone's happy with the Stamp-like module with pins down both sides, then we'll go with that. If not - let me know ASAP. I'm in a holding pattern until it's decided.

[Nicmus]

If I understand it correctly there will be an initial load of the OS. I do not have the tools to do that but, if it comes preprogrammed or somebody can do it for me, count me in with 4.

Thanks,

Nick

[Bruce]

All boards will be pre-programmed & tested with the StickOS. It will be up to you, and everyone else, that gets a board, to read the instruction manual on how to setup & use the board.

[Nicmus]

I'm in with 4 if is not too late.

Nick

[mackrackit]

This is what I have for the tally so far. If anyone sees something that is wrong let me know.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...abUZzVWc&hl=en

Bruce,
Do you have a cut off date for this?

[ScaleRobotics]

I agree with everyone as well.......... Bruce has over done his generosity.

However, it sounds like my toaster oven skill level is not up to par with everyone else. I am at the "never done it" level. Speaking of off topic, can I get some feedback on how everyone else is soldering their 64 pin devices?

I have watched a few videos on the toaster oven technique (sparkfun). I do not have a ramp controller on the toaster I purchassed to try this. I do have some solder paste, but obviously will not have a stencil. I have seen it done a few ways, from a syringe of solder paste, to a solder iron applying solder in a pre-application to "toasting".

Can anyone elaborate on an "easy" way to do this. I am leaning toward offering $ for a working device, but obviously in the minority. Would love to be a member of the majority though!

[Nicmus]

Few tips and tricks I’m using:

• Keep your soldering iron tip clean all the time (use wet sponge) and re-tin the tip periodically (nothing helps better than a clean tip)
• Use a reliable soldering iron (I’m using Metcal) that can maintain the tip temperature when touching the pads
• Use a pointy flat at the very end tip not necessarily the thinnest. This shape works for me better than pointy round tips when dealing with multiple pin devices
• Add extra flux (fresh brownish resin type) it makes the solder flow better and avoids bridges
• Use lower temperature solder (leaded one is much easier to wok with)
• Keep your soldering iron temperature few degrees higher than normal but not too high so it oxidates too quickly
• Find solder as thin as possible (I’m personally using 0.3mm which I’m not sure is readily available)
• Make sure your pads do not have extra solder on them before you install the device (use solder wick to remove the excess)
• When soldering two pins components add solder on one pad. While holding the soldering iron on the pad hold the component with the tweezers in a slight angle so the pin you working with lands first on the pad and slide it in place. Finish by soldering the other pad. When soldering multiple pins chips add solder on one pad, slide the component in position while holding your soldering iron on the pad. Make sure all the pins are aligned with the pads. Unsolder and repeat this step until you have perfect alignment. It makes next steps much easier. When done aligning solder one more pin on opposite corner of the chip.
• Apply solder only where needed not on the tip first and then to the board.
• To finish a multiple pin device work one whole side at the time not pin by pin
• Add flux (on the side of the device over the pins and pads) with a fine tip dispenser if your solder has too little or none
• Hold your soldering iron on the first pin of the line you working on (if the tip has the small flat I mentioned above hold the flat on the pin). The axis of the soldering iron should be held at about 45 - 60 degree in reference to the board. Pull few inches on solder and using the other hand to hold it try to place its end right at the point of contact between the tip and board. While gently pushing down the tip slowly start sliding it over the pins on that side. In the same time make sure you feed fresh solder at the contact point and the tip does not starve.
• I prefer to kind of over feed solder which usually sticks with the iron and does not create bridges and get rid of it by quickly shaking the iron
• If any bridges use flux and solder wick.
• For uniformity and professional look, especially if you had to fix bridges, run the soldering iron once more over the affected sides and add solder only if necessary
• Last but not least it is important to use nonmagnetic tweezers especially when dealing with smaller sizes components
• Use Head Cleaner to clean when finished soldering. Flux remover has the tendency to leave a whitish film and it is much harsher on certain plastics. For better results when cleaning the flux I use acid brushes. I cut their bristles short for more stiffness

Following these simple guidelines, even with my failing eyes, I can still replace (that includes removing a defective chip and installing a new one) 64 – 100 pin chips in about two minutes and toy with 0402 or 0201 components without any problems.

After all this is not rocket surgery .

HTH

Regards,

Nick

[tenaja]

OK. If everyone's happy with the Stamp-like module with pins down both sides, then we'll go with that. If not - let me know ASAP. I'm in a holding pattern until it's decided.

I'm good with that.

Do we have a price guesstimate yet?

[Ioannis]

Ioannis,

We'll get the PICs. It would cost you more to ship them here than the cost of the PICs.

Many thanks Bruce. I vote for the Stamp-like too.

Ioannis

[Bruce]

No cut off date yet, and no cost estimates yet. Can't get to costs until I've finished the board, received quotes on those, and have a full BOM ready.

I have a few projects to finish first, and then will get moving on the board. It's already started, but have to wait to get my samples in.

[ScaleRobotics]

I have a few projects to finish first, and then will get moving on the board. It's already started, but have to wait to get my samples in.

Hello Bruce,

You should receive my PIC32 samples in the mail tomorrow. Hope work is slow for you .... (briefly of course)!

Thanks!

Walter

[jrprogrammer]

I sent 6 chips via Priority Mail. I only need 3 back on the board, so you will have 3 to donate or deduct off the board charge.. StickOS looks real interesting...
JR

[mackrackit]

I sent 6 chips via Priority Mail. I only need 3 back on the board, so you will have 3 to donate or deduct off the board charge.. StickOS looks real interesting...
JR

You have been added to the list.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...abUZzVWc&hl=en

[Bruce]

OK. I'm closing the offer now so I don't have to build 10K of these. If they get popular down the road we can make & sell them to anyone not already in on the group buy.

I have about 1 more week or so to finish a job, then I'll get busy on these. I have received my 3 samples, some from Dave and Walter.

[ScaleRobotics]

I tried to upload Bruce's gerber files (from post# 67) to Sparkfun's BatchPCB site, but I received a message saying " Unfortunately, your design "Bruce__s UBW32" violates our design rules of 8 mil traces with 8 mil trace spacing."


I am getting a quote on 30 boards from www.pcb-pool.com for the design v2.6 located here: http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/doc...easeNotes.html



It looks to be less than $5.00 for each board

Will let you know more when I get an official quote.

Walter

[Bruce]

Hi Walter,

I sent you some updated Gerbers, but I don't think you received the email so I'm posting them here. Just in case someone else wants to try making a prototype.

Sorry I haven't had time to move on this. We sold our big oven before the move, and our desktop unit went ker-flop shortly afterwards, so I'm not doing much fine pitch assembly.

I increased the spacing, trace widths, etc to 8 mil. Note I haven't made a prototype of this yet, but anyone that wants to is welcome to the files. Guess I better start returning a few chips too. Sorry. If it ain't one thing it's another.