144 LED Games Console Project

[funnydrummer]

Ok, after way too many emails from way too many people I've posted the files again. Here they are: http://www.scarydesign.com/144led/144LEDGERBERS.rar. Get them, save them, repost them somewhere else; this will not last forever.

To the dude that sent me a personal email asking me to not only repost the files, but explained in broken russian/english that the design didn't suit him and he wanted it changed to support USB with new code and would I get "right on it" YOU ARE THE REASON I PULLED THE FILES. All info is there to have a PRO PCB HOUSE make the boards; these were not designed for kitchen sink laser print transfer so forget complaining that the traces are too thin etc. and if you haven't figured out that a wire soldered on the top and bottom of a drilled hole is the same as a plated though hole, I just don't know what to tell you. Happy Halloween, Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Super Rosh Hashanah Kwanzaa and grandma's birthday. Please stop sending me emails asking for a favor "just for you". I do love to do "favors"; my rate starts at $75.00/hr. with a 10 hour minimum.

Thanks a lot mate.

In attachments you'll find my version of the project, enjoy!

[funnydrummer]

can someone tell me how to edit my post?
I've edited schematic, and here it is http://www.2shared.com/file/EZ6gNZQ5/SCH.html , can someone tell me where to connect that R19?
If someone can edit that schematic, I would be greatfull.

I used R19 for an extra power LED, which you haven't connected yet. There were some errors in that schematic.
I suggest you download the latest version in the post above... ;-)

[mtripoli]

thanks, but I have 17years, and in school we are making SCH and PCB with tango, and I won't buy displayes, I buyed 144 LED diodes.
Can you just connect that R19 on my schematic that I uploaded, and tell me if I have connected LED diodes correctly, because I edited your schematic

Your schematic looks a little odd for the displays. As shown it looks like the leds being used are offset in different directions so if the they are physically pushed together there would be rows and columns not lit. The resistor you are so worried about (R19) originates from one of the "d-pad" switches. These switches are pulled low and are active high as drawn in the schematic I did. I believe Art changed the code to reflect that. In his original code he had it as drawn with two pulled high and two pulled low for no reason whatsoever. Why you have another low value (120 ohm) resistor tied here I can't imagine. It looks to me like you simply copied the schematic wrong. Look at the original schematic in the RAR file I posted. This is not a difficult project. You've admitted "editing" the schematic; don't make changes to a circuit if you don't understand the circuit in the first place and then demand that others fix it for you or explain it to you.

[mtripoli]

I don't know if it's the language barrier or what, but hell, I'll give it a shot, again.

First, I don't know what the files are you keep posting, they have SCH and BRD extensions. I'm guessing that these belong to Eagle or something. So look, not everyone has these programs. I have Orcad and it uses the same extensions which means nothing. Save the output as PDF or jpeg or something that all PC's can open.

Second, I've posted the schematic from the system that ART did at the beginning. It looks like you or someone decided to change the drive scheme from emitter follower to open collector (if you don't know those terms stop working on this project and get a basic electronics book and do some reading). That's fine if you understand what you are doing, but as far as I know the code that Art wrote won't work with this design. So I'm guessing that after someone answers your "R19" question and if you get though construction of an actual PCB and get it stuffed you'll blindly run the code and it won't work and a new thread will start about how the code is wrong. But I digress...

As drawn in the schematic posted by "funnydrummer" R19 is connected to the column (anode) pin 13 of LED module (LED6) and to the pin 2 of the PIC which is pulled up by a 10k resistor. As drawn it does nothing. When you push the button tied to R30 the whole line of leds will light, that's it. There are column drivers through resistors R20-R29; I have no idea why they are different on LED1,3 and 5 than on LED2,4 and 6 but hey, whatever. The row connections are different on LED5 and LED6 as well. It may be some "Charlieplexing scheme" or it may simply be someone screwed up drawing the schematic, eh who knows. As its drawn it will be lots of fun to code for (that's sarcasm).

I'm not trying to be an a-hole or anything, but it sounds like you don't really know what you're doing and have jumped in way over your head. Simply copying schematics and making PCB's might work for little opamp audio circuits and such, but there are concepts going on here that you don't have the grasp of. Have you done a simple project yet and just blinked an led?

Also, these schematics are drawn horribly. Wires running all over the place like that is a recipe for disaster. Look at the schematic I drew; clean, clearly labeled, etc.

The original schematic:
http://www.scarydesign.com/144led/144LEDSCHEMATIC.pdf

[funnydrummer]

As drawn in the schematic posted by "funnydrummer" R19 is connected to the column (anode) pin 13 of LED module (LED6) and to the pin 2 of the PIC which is pulled up by a 10k resistor. As drawn it does nothing. When you push the button tied to R30 the whole line of leds will light, that's it. There are column drivers through resistors R20-R29; I have no idea why they are different on LED1,3 and 5 than on LED2,4 and 6 but hey, whatever. The row connections are different on LED5 and LED6 as well. It may be some "Charlieplexing scheme" or it may simply be someone screwed up drawing the schematic, eh who knows. As its drawn it will be lots of fun to code for (that's sarcasm).

Look mate, stop whining the whole time and at least have a look at the last schematic and board I posted.
I can't remove the older post so I'm sorry for that schematic. The power LED was wrongly connected indeed...
Since I'm only using 144 LEDs + a power LED, there are a lot of LEDs wich aren't connected. All unconnected LEDs will be covered with tape.
That way you don't have to worry about flashing LEDs. The bottom-right LED is going to be used as power LED, simple as that.

I'll let you know if it works though. I'm fixing the last errors now and then I'll be ordering a PCB.
Not everyone's as skilled as another, no need to flame. Just try to help us out or don't bother posting... ;-)

[mtripoli]

LOOK MATE. If anyone here is whining its the people that know nothing about electronics, tackle these kinds of projects and then get on here or any other board asking for help on the simplest of things. I didn't "flame" anyone; if you go back and read the post without attitude you'll see that I wrote it tongue in cheek. As for "helping you out" I re-posted the board file and schematics after YOU and Svrzic sent me PRIVATE MESSAGES asking for help. I don't reply to private messages; the board is here for everyone to read all questions and see all replies.

Part of the problem with all of this is people RUSH to drawing some schematic in some software they downloaded for free, usually riddled with mistakes, post it to a board like this, confuse others that don't have any experience either and when someone more knowledgeable points out the mistakes you get defensive and start up with "help us or leave". How about you help yourselves FIRST by going online or better yet buy a book on basic electronics and get a fundamental understanding of these things (if I recall you said in your private message you needed this for school). There is FAR MORE TO IT than simply copying someone else's schematic, etching a board in the sink and then loading someone else's code and crossing your fingers that it will work.

As for "at least have a look at the last schematic and board I posted" I can't. You evidently posted Eagle schematic and board files. Not everyone has or uses these tools, and I'm not about to load up some software only to use it as a basic viewer. This is why we post in a neutral format like a simple jpeg or even a PDF so everyone can see it. Do yourself a favor and post your "latest" in something we can all see, and then those "more skilled" can have a look and potentially stop you from making a mistake that'll keep your project from working.

[funnydrummer]

LOOK MATE. If anyone here is whining its the people that know nothing about electronics, tackle these kinds of projects and then get on here or any other board asking for help on the simplest of things. I didn't "flame" anyone; if you go back and read the post without attitude you'll see that I wrote it tongue in cheek. As for "helping you out" I re-posted the board file and schematics after YOU and Svrzic sent me PRIVATE MESSAGES asking for help. I don't reply to private messages; the board is here for everyone to read all questions and see all replies.

Part of the problem with all of this is people RUSH to drawing some schematic in some software they downloaded for free, usually riddled with mistakes, post it to a board like this, confuse others that don't have any experience either and when someone more knowledgeable points out the mistakes you get defensive and start up with "help us or leave". How about you help yourselves FIRST by going online or better yet buy a book on basic electronics and get a fundamental understanding of these things (if I recall you said in your private message you needed this for school). There is FAR MORE TO IT than simply copying someone else's schematic, etching a board in the sink and then loading someone else's code and crossing your fingers that it will work.

As for "at least have a look at the last schematic and board I posted" I can't. You evidently posted Eagle schematic and board files. Not everyone has or uses these tools, and I'm not about to load up some software only to use it as a basic viewer. This is why we post in a neutral format like a simple jpeg or even a PDF so everyone can see it. Do yourself a favor and post your "latest" in something we can all see, and then those "more skilled" can have a look and potentially stop you from making a mistake that'll keep your project from working.

Nevermind. Thanks for the reply anyway. ;-)

I'm not a professional, but I tend to learn from people who DO know a lot about electronics.
And I'm not going to copy any code. The hardware is the 'easy' part, I think.
I'll post the source for my version of snake (in C) when everything is fully working.

In the zip file you can find the board file I've sent to the PCB company.
I hope everything's working, if not, I'll let you guys know.

Schematic:


Board:

[FernandoA]

hello, art
well I am new to this and would like to know how to connect the pulsating since I have not clear yet, you could help me. And this other your work is great.

[electroguy]

Sir@Art
Thanks for making an awesome project like this.


I am trying to make a PCB of it and hope to make it very soon.
I have some random question,

1#which version of PIC BASIC PRO did you used
2#what was the version of BASIC language that you used to program

Thanks in advance

[Gaffalover]

Hi,
I built the console and it works well.
Unfortunately, I am the exact opposite of Art
I do love electronics, but on the software side i only do what i have to do to get it running.

Tetris works perfectly, but at Snake the keys are swapped by -90 °.
I hold the console horizontally and have soldered the buttons directly to the board.
So if I want to go right, I have to press the top button.
If I want to go left, I have to press the lower button.
If I want up, I have to press the left button.
If I want down, I have to press the right button.

For clarification, here is a picture of what the buttons are doing.


Hopefully someone can change the v3 for me so that it fits.
I would be very grateful!

[Art]

Snake is plyed in landscape orientation, you're supposed to turn the whole
circuit board sideways, in the same orientation that the message is scrolled,
and then the high score will appear the right way too.

[Art]

Hi Guys,
I am still getting emails from people making this project.
Most have it working, and just ask questions about programming new messages.

Some emails are form people who put the whole thing together with transistors facing the wrong way,
reflecting an error in my original schematic diagram.

Does anyone have any idea where this original schematic might be sourced?
The last time I tried to find out, but didn't hear back from the guy making the project.

bushprogrammer at google's mail domain.
Cheers, Art.