How do I give a radio control car autonomous control


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  1. #1
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    Default Problems with CAPTURE .OLB files

    Anybody using CAPTURE for schematics? I am trying, but I have been hit for a loss. I need the library file for the Microchip PIC16F887. I found just that at:

    http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cKwuS-E...w/PIC16F88.OLB

    Trouble is when I download the file and try to open it with CAPTURE, the error window pops up saying: "Unable to load file 'C:\ORCADWIN\CAPTURE\LIBRARY\PIC16F88.OLB'. Object Not Found."

    The file really is there. I can open it with NOTEPAD, but a lot of good that is...

    Ken

  2. #2
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    Default ROVIO from WOWWEE.COM

    I received in the mail yesterday a booklet that mentioned the WowWee product Rovio. They have done what I am planning. They have a BOT which accepts external commends (via WIFI) and also runs autonomously. Interesting.... Not as sexy as my idea (IMHO)

    http://www.wowwee.com/en/products/te...ce/rovio/rovio

    I'm little by little making a schematic using ORCAD's CAPTURE product.

    I am working on my idea not in complete electronic detail. My first picture will include all significant pieces, all connectors, all multi-conductor wires and my best guess as to which piece goes on which prototype board.

    This will give me enough of a concept to take to my local RC Cars establishment and to Do It Yourself Electronics. After that the transistors', resistors', capacitors' batteries' and PIC pin selection details will be created.

    Thanks for your continued interst.

    Ken

  3. #3
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    Default

    Looking forward to hearing more and seeing the pictures.
    Dave
    Always wear safety glasses while programming.

  4. #4
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    Default First cut at what goes where

    Attached below is my first try at which parts go where on my radio controlled car. I drew it with a Tee square and triangles. (I could not stick a thumbtack into our oak cutting board? Drawing boards were made of maple - I think)

    The parts in the red section are originally in the car.

    The blue section is hoped to be on the PICkit 2. (There is an added toggle switch which I may or may not be able to solder to that printed circuit.)

    The yellow section is two sonic range control units each on its own fairly small pc card. I need to devise a method to attach them to the car plus an electrical connection method.

    The rest, in black, is presumed to fit onto an inline prototype card.

    A big issue is the connectors. The more the better if I can make them reliable. I welcome your judgments.

    I have not included electronic details. I think I know which PIC pins to use. The three different Vdd sources (USB supplied, 6 volt battery pack and 7.2 volt battery pack) boggle my mind. If I can settle on a physical layout then resisters, capacitors, and transistors will be next.
    I need to figure out how to trigger PIC interrupts from the light sensor and the sonic range control.

    HAPPY NEW YEAR.
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    Default Opps,

    More details.

    Originally the pulse width modulated signals from the radio receiver control the steering servo motor and the amplifier (speed control) which drives the DC motor.

    My design has the PIC interrupting that service by controlling the multiple double pole double throw relay switches.

    Channel 3 from the radio receiver be used to tell the PIC to toggle between autonomous control and radio control. This decision can be overridden with the toggle switch in the middle of the picture.

    Once in autonomous control the car has two means of evaluating its environment. A narrow angle lense (the cardboard tube from a toilet paper roll?) light sensitive device and two sonic range control devices.

    The light sensor could find a incandescent light bulb. Once found (by turning in a 360 degree circle for example) a simple line following algorithm should lead the car to the light source.

    The front and right side mounted sonic range controls could guide the PIC counter clockwise around the inside of a room. This idea is on the WEB at:

    http://letsmakerobots.com/node/928

    Thanks all,

    Ken

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    Default Solderless breadboarding

    A quick judgment please.

    I just discovered solderless breadboarding. Does it work? Is it reliable? I think I can buy some at You Do It tomorrow. Is it a good idea?

    Ken

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    Thumbs up solderless bread-boarding

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenjones1935 View Post
    A quick judgment please.

    I just discovered solderless breadboarding. Does it work? Is it reliable? I think I can buy some at You Do It tomorrow. Is it a good idea?

    Ken
    YES! YES, for most prototypes Yes, they are a great way to test ideas.
    -Adam-
    Ohm it's not just a good idea... it's the LAW !

  8. #8
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    Default

    Took a quick look at the schematic and you will need a regulator from the 6 volt battery pack...

    As for the bread boards.
    Good, bad, and ugly....
    That is all I use for proto-typing. Then when I am happy with things I get the soldering iron out.
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    Dave
    Always wear safety glasses while programming.

  9. #9
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    Default Analog to digital conversion PIC16F887

    Folks,

    OKAY: Details.

    My reading of the PICkit 2 Users Guide tells me that AN0 is connected to the on board potentiometer. AN1 is available for my use.

    I need to connect the light sensitive resistor to an analog to digital converting input. Please confirm that I am getting this correct.

    Pin 20 is A to D input AN1 and available.
    It has an input resistance of at least 1Kohm
    I can choose my reference voltage to be either Vdd or Vss.
    I would install a 1Kohm resistor from Pin 20 to Vdd.
    If I were to choose a CDS cell that varies from 1Kohm in darkness to 24Kohm in bright light do you think the A to D on pin 20 could discern the difference?

    Yes, a voltage regulator on the six volts. Thank you.

    Ken

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