PBP projects for R/C models

[Kenjones1935]

My big hesitation with switching to MicroC is configuring a USB connection. I have been very successful with the PICkit2 package.
This experience with the USB port using Hyperterminal has taxed my understanding of the system.
I hesitate to change. I assume I can get a USB compatible (0.1" centers) connector at our local YouDoIt Electronics store. I'll do more reading from the mikroBasic WEB page.

Thanks, Ken

[Kenjones1935]

I just now found that very tiny Power Source switch. On the first board is was in the wrong position to get power off the USB.

Now it tells me!

[rmteo]

My big hesitation with switching to MicroC is configuring a USB connection.

Why would you need a USB connection? Just program the PIC with the PicKit2 (or other compatible programmer) using ICSP - mikroC or mikroBASIC doesn't care.

[mackrackit]

http://mackrackit.cambs.net/Kenjones1935/

[Kenjones1935]

Trial and error tells me that the only way to reconnect hyperterminal via C4 (the USB) to my BITWhacker after physically dislocating the connector is to be holding down the RESET switch while inserting the USB connector.

Anybody see that written down anywhere?

Thank you both for the leads to documentation of this thread.

Ken

[ScaleRobotics]

Trial and error tells me that the only way to reconnect hyperterminal via C4 (the USB) to my BITWhacker after physically dislocating the connector is to be holding down the RESET switch while inserting the USB connector.

Anybody see that written down anywhere?

It is sort of documented.....

I think this is an effect of having the bootloader resident on the device. You "should" be able to either have the bootloader resident, with StickOS in the program memory (sort of underneath it). Or, to get rid of the "feature" you found, program over the whole thing, using your Pickit2 with the StickOS with the shorter name (not meant for bootloaders). Though I am a little hesitant to have you do that to the working device. Better off trying this on the non-working one, and see if we can revive it.

I think, then you would have it immediately recognized when you plug it in to a port, without pressing a button.

When I say sort of documented, it is at the bottom of the UBW32 page here: http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/doc...mentation.html Does this explain what you have found?

In my search, I also found a page that has the pinouts for the device in a readable format. http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW32/doc...easeNotes.html

As for your question about the other off topic thread: We had a member graciously volunteer to build some StickOS devices. But it is a fair amount of work, and somewhere between the commitments of family, work, (and I think even moving), it has been understandably delayed a bit. So we are all living vicariously through you right now. (Although I do have a piece of hardware that I can get a command line interface with StickOS, just not via USB.) There is also a StickOS simulator for PC's lcated here: http://www.cpustick.com/downloads/StickOS.v1.80.exe But the simulator would have different pin names than your hardware.

And as for cheaper, the Eagle board files for the UBW32 are available at Sparkfun's site. Although you sound a bit skeptical (as was I) about soldering a device like that, most others seem to find it very doable, to hand solder these devices (and the rest use toaster ovens). Doing this, with a fair number of boards, would make it much cheaper than the $40 a pop. For soldering tips, check's out nicmus's response here, and Dave's post just after it: http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/show...2872#post92872

[Kenjones1935]

Thank you rmteo,

I enticed MikroBasic Pro to compile its 1st_project 'blink the LED's' Basic code . I then got PICKit2 to download the resulting .hex file. The only mistake was that MikroBasic assumed the LEDs are attached to PORTC. On the PICKit2 card they are attached to PORTD. After that minor adjustment. It works.

KEn!

[Kenjones1935]

Way back I thought a good middle school project would be
to race by R/Cing the car out a door, wait for it to find its way autonomously back through another door (This second door would have a naked 150W bulb at its threshold.), then repeat the cycle some number of times. The R/C - autonomous toggle to be controlled by powering ON and OFF the radio transmitter. If the transmitter's power is ON, the PIC detects activity from the radio receiver and switches control over to the original system.

Advantages of that idea are:
1. No need for proportional controls. A toy level car will do.
2. Photo cells are much less expensive than sonar sensors.

A problem is that the kit requires six DPDT coil driven relays: two for PIC generated steering, two for PIC generated wheel control and two for toggling between PIC control and R/C control. These are inexpensive, but add complexity in kit construction.

This car could also do the swarm-after-teacher who's carrying a naked bright light game. I've been changing my focus from teach-the-student to teach-the-teacher. What do you think? The RC system itself is full of "How things work" answers.

Your thoughts?

Ken