New project help rapidfire on 12f683

[skimask]

What's it going to take skimask?

People come here for help, and the purpose of this forum is to try to provide that.
Ridicule and belittling, are NOT part of the program.

If you have no help to offer, then you have no reason to post.
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I think I've got a pretty good template for him to work from, complete and everything, never thought it was worth anything since I've seen the same type of thing all over the internet.
BUT, I'VE ALREADY BUILT A COUPLE OF THEM FOR A FRIEND AS A BIRTHDAY PRESENT ABOUT A YEAR AGO! NOT QUITE THE SAME, SINGLE-SHOT, 5 SHOT, CONTINUOUS, OFF, AND...NOT ONLY THAT, BUT EVENTUALLY, ONCE I SAW THAT THE GUY WAS ACTUALLY WORKING TOWARDS LEARNING HOW PBP WORKS, I WOULD HAVE UPLOADED THE WHOLE SHEBANG, THE WHOLE LOT, SCHEMATICs FOR THE NEW AND THE OLD CONTROLLER, PBP SOURCE CODE FOR THE 12F683, HEX FILEs, AND MAYBE, JUST MAYBE, SINCE IT'S THE HOLIDAY SEASON AND ALL, I MIGHT HAVE SENT THE GUY A FINISHED, PROGRAMMED PIC AND A FEW PICTURES OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT.

But, you know what...(and sorry there 'thm ov3rkill', but you've got DT to thank for this), skip it. Not gonna do it.

Go ban yourself for awhile! Better yet...Put it to another vote like you did last year.

But I will give the original poster a suggestion on the one question...

Ill try to get this code to work one question was if the same pin can read the low coming from the trigger and rapidfire on the same pin..

With some creative hardware, you might be able to get away with it. You could leave the pin floating, use one switch to pull it low thru a high value resistor, use the other switch to pull it high thru another high value resistor. There's an app note around somewhere that describes how to do that sort of thing.
Another option is to plug the switches into an A/D input and use a couple of resistors as a voltage divider. One switch pulls the input down to, say 1v, the other switch pulls the input down to 2v, both switches 3v, or something to that effect.
But since you've got unused pins, easier just to read two pins with one switch each, than read two switches on one pin.

[Darrel Taylor]

No vote required.

Thank you!

[Darrel Taylor]

Sorry bout that!

Maybe now, Joe can't get something accomplished here.

I'll help if I can too.
Might want to start a new thread though.
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[Archangel]

Maybe now, Joe <font color=red>can't </font color>get something accomplished here.

Freudian slip, or are you telling me something here ?

[Darrel Taylor]

DOH!

That was supposed to be CAN.

Freud just might have a theory or two.

Sorry Joe!

[Archangel]

DOH!

That was supposed to be CAN.

Freud just might have theory or two.

Sorry Joe!

No Problem ! Everyone's just too serious, I will be glad when 12/26 rolls about ! Anyway we'll whip up some tasty spaghetti, unless we get some experts to help, long as it works Hey!

[Darrel Taylor]

I've been working on an NKK display in another thread for what seems like a week (3 days). So I hadn't been paying much attention to this one.

After a quick review, the problem I see is that there are a lot of buttons on the 360 controller. It's most likely that the buttons are "Multiplexed".

In the PDF of the original project, it shows an input FROM the button, and an output TO the button. So apparently the pulses can only be put out when that button gets scanned.

This will be more difficult than just toggling a pin 3 times.

Do you have an oscillicope to verify if they're scanned or not?
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[mackrackit]

No Problem ! Everyone's just too serious, I will be glad when 12/26 rolls about ! Anyway we'll whip up some tasty spaghetti, unless we get some experts to help, long as it works Hey!

Joe,
Do you have any good quotes from DicTators ?