hello
Does anyone know a good(aka cheap) front panel or face plate making company. For low volume 20/month. Or just an easy method of printing on to plasic.
Jamie
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hello
Does anyone know a good(aka cheap) front panel or face plate making company. For low volume 20/month. Or just an easy method of printing on to plasic.
Jamie
Lately, I've been using plain ol' sticker paper from Staples (the kind you can stick to stuff, like a kid's sticker), and putting that on the back of the face plate 'cause it's see the see thru type. Putting it on the front will work too, but will wear in time, so cover it up with another piece of clear sticker paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoops2006
The major problem I've found is that in sunlight, the colors fade after awhile.
But it is dirt cheap....
I also use this method, work pretty well, and yeah darn cheap.
Ill give it a try. Problem is i sell timers that i made a while back. im trying to make them look less home made. So if any one knows a hobbist silk screener preferablly uk based, let me know
Here's my first attempt with simple stuff using that method... long time ago. Sorry i don't have any decent camera here.. :o
http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/atta...5&d=1207242560
Not sure how about Trent's method but looks good
http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/atta...8&d=1177475899
It does look good. Also noticed u managed to cut a square in ur box for the seven segment display. Did u buy the box pre cut or use a dremel.
Hi,
What about Scotchcal/Scotchmask products ( from 3M ) ???
laser printable ...
Alain
That is my worst piece of work. Like a pig swimming around in jail cell in a puddle full s h i t.Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_e
You can use Dremel, some kind of knockout punches (or punch and dies) or the ol' method... drill a hole, then shape it with files... i used punches and dies.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoops2006
Dies? who dies??Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_e
OK, seriously, a hand tool like file or dremel sure will help, but if you plan to use 20/month then I would suggest a home made CNC machine. There are a lot of plans on the net usually they are simple stepper motor driver with cheap IC's and mostly driven by the common G-code lanquage. Don't be scared by the CNC term. It's an easy to build machine.
Ioannis
Yeah, that's one of those thing i want to build since awhile. There's a lot of fun in it.
Trent. your worst bit of work as you called it, looks quite good to me. What method did u use for that.
Hi Steve. Sure it is. I am looking for parts that would give the precision for the job. If you have any infos please share. One link for metal parts (alu parts really) I found was: www.minitec.deQuote:
Originally Posted by mister_e
Ioannis
Hi All
Ioannis:
I have dabbled in building manufacturing CNC machines, the word that stands out is precision / repeatability , and for that you need to spend proper money. I know you are using precision in the subjective sense, but just look over at the hosted sister forum (no name :D ) and look at the problems that even a simple CNC can generate like the recent debacle over a “hobby” colinbus kit.Quote:
I am looking for parts that would give the precision for the job.
We know there is a plethora of sites dedicated to CNC but I have found that www.cnczone.com and its extensive forum always always worth a visit. In the UK automotion has been making a presence over the last few years at the big manufacturing exhibitions. They have a some reference books particularly “linear and rotary motion components” which is a handy start, they are at www.automotion.co.uk
Of course Wixroyd has to be listed for accessories.
In any event one main enemy is going to be vibration, the foundations of a plant in my opinion is of singular importance, you can spend hours farting around tweaking with dampers, braces etc, but there is nothing to beat a good solid ground flat base and if you can’t bolt it to a concrete floor then secure it to a pile of concrete slabs.
As for fascias, I sometimes use Quick-Mark which is the replacement for the 3M Dynamark, but if you are only wanting one-off prototypes, there is nothing to beat a photocolour inkjet print and a simple laminating machine. Use a laser or sublimation inks for UV stable prints, I havn’t tried it with a wax printer yet. Fix them with a permanent photomount spray, if you do suffer from possibility of curl then use carpet fixing spray adhesive. Sometimes I use my PCB layout software (Eagle) as the Artwork source, creating separate colourways in unused layers, very useful when rearranging components that project or are position critical through the enclosure/artwork.
Duncan
hoops2006, Try this: www.frontpaneldesigner.com
Dave Purola,
N8NTA
Has anyone used these guys before
were you not asking for the UK and a cheap hobbit?Quote:
Originally Posted by hoops2006
Last time I did this outof house was using Lasershape in Leeds on brushed stainles plates approx 350mm x 220mm approx £13 each for 20 units they will take a standard DXF file and use either water or laser to cut. They only have a two axis cutter so no bevelling. Then I had some of the units sent to a silk screen company in Colchester who printed it with a logo 1 colourway approx 50mm x 30mm for about £30. but I think we only sent 2 units off to them.
By the time you have the shipping costs to and fro and having to give files in correct format you might well be looking at using one of the array of products at somewhere like www.megauk.com. Give them a ring they are very helpfull they may even be able to put you in touch with a local UK based Hobbit customer of theirs. :D
There are a number of people doing the soldermask principle on very thin sheets of stainless and etching designs into the surface. Some of the business cards they produce are very impressive, just an idea........
oops got to go fast
Duncan
Hello Hoops2006,Quote:
Originally Posted by hoops2006
PM me with what you need and expect to pay, my boss might do it for you as filler work for the cnc.
JS