@SVRZIC: This is becoming a language problem of epic proportions. I've negotiated a full weeks "company" with a lovely Asian girl in China in less time and with less confusion than what's going on here. Are you saying that you want the led matrix redrawn with the little arrows added to each diode in the array? Man, I hope not... Go to Kingbright (www.kingbrightusa.com) and put in the part number TA20-11E and look at the data sheet. Maybe also try using Google Translate and writing out exactly what the problem is in your native language and then posting the translation here. It may not be perfect but maybe it'll clue us into what you want.

@funnydrummer: I'm sorry to hear you already released the board. At the very least you'll need to tack solder in the decoupling caps across the VDD/VSS pins on the part/socket. Also as I said, you have no provision for doing ICSP. Those pins don't take kindly to having "stuff" hanging off them while programming. You don't need R1 through R8 at all so when you build it put in wire jumpers instead of resistors. Kludge in a dual SPST switch soldered across the pads in place of the resistor and hot glue the mess to keep it solid so you don't tear pads off the board. You can still get these "Test Clips" made by 3M and Pomona. Mouser has one for $45.96 (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...2ft7rMmGLEo%3d). You can again kludge the wire ICSP wire from your programmer to th eclip and then clip onto the part in the socket to flash the part. OF course, you have to figure out how well your programmer will work with a length of cable between the programmer and the DUT. I know from experience that the Melabs U2 is very forgiving of cable length (read "designed well") and I've managed some wires solder tacked in place to update a part in the field. The PicKit3 gives all kinds of errors one minute and works for days the next if you happen to bump the programmer cable (your mileage may vary). And if you don't put a series diode and resistor on the Vpp line you'll be stuffing something like +13V back onto the supply line. Hmmmm... Not so good.

Your statement "I thought it would be nice to post the source anyway, just for the people who prefer C over basic" gave me quite the good chuckle. Yup, ALL KINDS of people who prefer C hanging around the Pic Basic (not just basic mind you, but Melabs Pic Basic) forum. And the PBP guys love answering C code questions, don't we fella's? Perhaps its something more like the PBP crowd is a bit more helpful than those on other boards and try and actually give people a hand with getting their stuff going. That is until the end when after offering all kinds of help the finally admit to using some kind of C or "other" Basic program and admit they can't get any help on the other boards so they come here.

AS for me, I'm out. This thread has me weary (again) and I just had to put my dog down after 16 years so Right Now I couldn't care less if your project works or not. Do yourself some real help; look around the board at how people have designed their circuits and watch for commonalities. Get one of any number of "Programming PICS" books and do some reading. Read the damn datasheet for a programmable part and make sure you have some way to program it and if it has more than one VDD pin take it as gospel they all get a cap tied to them right at the pin and solidly to ground, not across the PCB as you've demonstrated. 20MHz huh? Good luck with that...

Ciao.