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  1. #41


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    Default Gerber files and schematic

    Following are links for downloading the latest schematic and PCB Gerber files for the PCB.

    Schematic: http://www.scarydesign.com/144ledgam...dschematic.pdf
    PCB PDF: http://www.scarydesign.com/144ledgame/144ledgame.pdf
    Gerber file (in RAR): http://www.scarydesign.com/144ledgame/144ledgerbers.rar

    The board is 4.5" x 4.75". There are mounting holes on the four corners for a 6-32 screw.

    The Gerber file contains the Gerbers and drill files. You can send this as is to a board house to get boards.

    The leds, transistors, small capacitors and resistors can take either through-hole or SMD components. Resistors and caps are 0805.

    The pushbutton switches are 6mm x 6mm tactile type.

    You can use a three terminal resonator or a crystal and caps; your pick. If you use the HC49U you can lay it down on the board. There is a pad connecting to ground; solder a piece of wire from the metal case to this pad.

    Many input voltage capabilities. No matter what you choose, I'd recommend a 7-9VDC supply; nothing more than 12VDC. Keep in mind that if you use the bridge rectifier input there are 2 diode drops. You can bolt the voltage regulator to the board for a little heatsinking though I don't think it's needed.

    There's a small "proto" area with +5 and ground available.

    Let me know if anything looks squirrely.

    Have fun.

    EDIT: I used "cutePDF" to generate the PDF of the PCB. I don't know why but the pads look a little "odd". They really aren't like that in the Gerbers...
    Last edited by mtripoli; - 14th March 2010 at 00:14. Reason: more info

  2. #42
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    Nice work

    I guess I'll go find a PCB house that will do hobbyist quantities.

  3. #43
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    Default Shematic project complete

    hello someone has Shematic project complete
    I really enjoyed the project I'm more questions to the input pins of the buttons
    can someone help me
    thanks

  4. #44
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    Hi,
    Have you built the hardware and have it scrolling messages?

    There are two buttons that behave differently with the hardware you produce from the PCB.
    The pic program assumes two button pins are pulled to gnd, and the other two are
    pulled up.
    The change made in the hardware PCB requires all input buttons be pulled high
    (or low.. don't quite remember).

    Did you build from mrtripoli's PCB artwork, or schematic?

  5. #45
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    Default 144 LED Games Console Project

    hi art
    aminha and doubts over the buttons to program the mesagem the pc
    are the same DIP switch ,1, DIP switch 2 ,DIP 3 DIP switch, DIP switch 4
    or has other buttons ...

  6. #46
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    My prototypes have DIP switches connected in series with each of
    the four buttons so that a button could be "held down" easily.
    I didn't intend for the DIP switches to be used by anyone else though.

  7. #47
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    I can not see Mtripoli ... Do not open the thing for me.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dorneliss View Post
    I can not see Mtripoli ... Do not open the thing for me.
    Hi, Dorneliss

    Looks those files simply have been removed from the server ...

    also note MTripoli has not posted anything since end of April ...

    Alain
    ************************************************** ***********************
    Why insist on using 32 Bits when you're not even able to deal with the first 8 ones ??? ehhhhhh ...
    ************************************************** ***********************
    IF there is the word "Problem" in your question ...
    certainly the answer is " RTFM " or " RTFDataSheet " !!!
    *****************************************

  9. #49
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    Wow! What a pity! Does anyone have the file to upload ...?

  10. #50
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    Default Project files

    Quote Originally Posted by Dorneliss View Post
    Wow! What a pity! Does anyone have the file to upload ...?
    I didn't bother saving the gerbils because I do home etching and was going to do my own single sided board, but I have the schematic and a PDF of the board files. I also made an overlay picture as follows:


    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5346257/144ledgame%20PCB.pdf
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5346257/144LEDGAME.pdf

  11. #51
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    Thanks for your help!

  12. #52
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    Will I get to use a pic 18f4520 pic instead of 16?

  13. #53
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    Hi Guys,
    I finally got hold of a picture of someone else's completed version:



    I was seeking this just for verification/confidence that schematics are correct, etc.
    If you look carefully you can see "Snake" on the display. This is the intro screen for the snake game.
    Cheers, Art.

  14. #54
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by Art View Post
    Hi Guys,
    I finally got hold of a picture of someone else's completed version:



    I was seeking this just for verification/confidence that schematics are correct, etc.
    If you look carefully you can see "Snake" on the display. This is the intro screen for the snake game.
    Cheers, Art.
    Helllo,
    First I would like to say all positive comment about your project, one say congrat!!!!
    Please , can you confirm correct polarization of LED diodes because if you look shematics you can cee that collector transistors are on +5V or you change something in hex file???
    Please confirm this schematics https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5346257/144LEDGAME.pdf and what hex .file you used, please let me know!

    regards,

  15. #55


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Hi guys

    I'm sorry for grave-digging, but I am trying to make my own version of this project for school. Since all files (the ones from mtripoli and dropbox) have been removed I was wondering if anyone still has them...

    Thanks in advance!

    EDIT: amazing project btw, thanks a lot Art and all other contrbutors!

  16. #56
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Dave
    Always wear safety glasses while programming.

  17. #57


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Thanks a lot, but I already noticed that... That isn't the up-to-date version of this project, neither is it the version that mtripoli posted.

    I might be new, but I do know how to read...

  18. #58


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    I have finished my eagle schematic, download and edit if you want. Any help is welcome! ;-)

    Schematic.zip

  19. #59
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Hy!
    Can someone give me the latest schematic, or PCB, and codes for games?
    Thanks!
    P.S. I'm new on this forum, so I tell everybody Hy!
    Sorry about my English :S

  20. #60
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Hmm, this is not Micro$oft to have every Tuesday updates of the software... We write our own and if have difficulties then we ask politely for help presenting our job so far.

    Sorry, but this is how it works.

    Ioannis

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    Default Re: Ahhh... no


  22. #62
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    Default Re: Ahhh... no

    Welcome to the forum Svrzic. (But please, no double postings here)

    You connect them at the ports for the PIC chip. For instance: RB0, RB1, RB2, etc.
    Last edited by ScaleRobotics; - 22nd November 2011 at 14:53.
    http://www.scalerobotics.com

  23. #63
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    thanks!
    I dont know how to edit my posts, so i wrote 2 posts.
    can you make schematic, or write me where to put every ports?

  24. #64
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    can someone tell me how to edit my post?
    I've edited schematic, and here it is http://www.2shared.com/file/EZ6gNZQ5/SCH.html , can someone tell me where to connect that R19?
    If someone can edit that schematic, I would be greatfull.

  25. #65


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Ok, after way too many emails from way too many people I've posted the files again. Here they are: http://www.scarydesign.com/144led/144LEDGERBERS.rar. Get them, save them, repost them somewhere else; this will not last forever.

    To the dude that sent me a personal email asking me to not only repost the files, but explained in broken russian/english that the design didn't suit him and he wanted it changed to support USB with new code and would I get "right on it" YOU ARE THE REASON I PULLED THE FILES. All info is there to have a PRO PCB HOUSE make the boards; these were not designed for kitchen sink laser print transfer so forget complaining that the traces are too thin etc. and if you haven't figured out that a wire soldered on the top and bottom of a drilled hole is the same as a plated though hole, I just don't know what to tell you. Happy Halloween, Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Super Rosh Hashanah Kwanzaa and grandma's birthday. Please stop sending me emails asking for a favor "just for you". I do love to do "favors"; my rate starts at $75.00/hr. with a 10 hour minimum.

  26. #66


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by mtripoli View Post
    Ok, after way too many emails from way too many people I've posted the files again. Here they are: http://www.scarydesign.com/144led/144LEDGERBERS.rar. Get them, save them, repost them somewhere else; this will not last forever.

    To the dude that sent me a personal email asking me to not only repost the files, but explained in broken russian/english that the design didn't suit him and he wanted it changed to support USB with new code and would I get "right on it" YOU ARE THE REASON I PULLED THE FILES. All info is there to have a PRO PCB HOUSE make the boards; these were not designed for kitchen sink laser print transfer so forget complaining that the traces are too thin etc. and if you haven't figured out that a wire soldered on the top and bottom of a drilled hole is the same as a plated though hole, I just don't know what to tell you. Happy Halloween, Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Super Rosh Hashanah Kwanzaa and grandma's birthday. Please stop sending me emails asking for a favor "just for you". I do love to do "favors"; my rate starts at $75.00/hr. with a 10 hour minimum.
    Thanks a lot mate.

    In attachments you'll find my version of the project, enjoy!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  27. #67


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by Svrzic View Post
    can someone tell me how to edit my post?
    I've edited schematic, and here it is http://www.2shared.com/file/EZ6gNZQ5/SCH.html , can someone tell me where to connect that R19?
    If someone can edit that schematic, I would be greatfull.
    I used R19 for an extra power LED, which you haven't connected yet. There were some errors in that schematic.
    I suggest you download the latest version in the post above... ;-)

  28. #68
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by funnydrummer View Post
    I used R19 for an extra power LED, which you haven't connected yet. There were some errors in that schematic.
    I suggest you download the latest version in the post above... ;-)
    thanks, but I have 17years, and in school we are making SCH and PCB with tango, and I won't buy displayes, I buyed 144 LED diodes.
    Can you just connect that R19 on my schematic that I uploaded, and tell me if I have connected LED diodes correctly, because I edited your schematic

  29. #69


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by Svrzic View Post
    thanks, but I have 17years, and in school we are making SCH and PCB with tango, and I won't buy displayes, I buyed 144 LED diodes.
    Can you just connect that R19 on my schematic that I uploaded, and tell me if I have connected LED diodes correctly, because I edited your schematic
    Your schematic looks a little odd for the displays. As shown it looks like the leds being used are offset in different directions so if the they are physically pushed together there would be rows and columns not lit. The resistor you are so worried about (R19) originates from one of the "d-pad" switches. These switches are pulled low and are active high as drawn in the schematic I did. I believe Art changed the code to reflect that. In his original code he had it as drawn with two pulled high and two pulled low for no reason whatsoever. Why you have another low value (120 ohm) resistor tied here I can't imagine. It looks to me like you simply copied the schematic wrong. Look at the original schematic in the RAR file I posted. This is not a difficult project. You've admitted "editing" the schematic; don't make changes to a circuit if you don't understand the circuit in the first place and then demand that others fix it for you or explain it to you.
    Last edited by mtripoli; - 23rd November 2011 at 16:58.

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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by mtripoli View Post
    Your schematic looks a little odd for the displays. As shown it looks like the leds being used are offset in different directions so if the they are physically pushed together there would be rows and columns not lit. The resistor you are so worried about (R19) originates from one of the "d-pad" switches. These switches are pulled low and are active high as drawn in the schematic I did. I believe Art changed the code to reflect that. In his original code he had it as drawn with two pulled high and two pulled low for no reason whatsoever. Why you have another low value (120 ohm) resistor tied here I can't imagine. It looks to me like you simply copied the schematic wrong. Look at the original schematic in the RAR file I posted. This is not a difficult project. You've admitted "editing" the schematic; don't make changes to a circuit if you don't understand the circuit in the first place and then demand that others fix it for you or explain it to you.
    I will turn then LED diodes, but can you connect that R19 somewhere?
    I don't know where to cennect it.
    I copied schematic, and I've just edited it.
    In the original schematic, that I was edited, resistors are 120E, but I will use 330E, as it is on original schematic.
    I just need someone to connect that R19 somewhere, where it must go, and I will make PCB.

  31. #71
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by Svrzic View Post
    I will turn then LED diodes, but can you connect that R19 somewhere?
    I don't know where to cennect it.
    I copied schematic, and I've just edited it.
    In the original schematic, that I was edited, resistors are 120E, but I will use 330E, as it is on original schematic.
    I just need someone to connect that R19 somewhere, where it must go, and I will make PCB.
    I've made new PCB, is it better?
    http://www.2shared.com/file/H13hi86b/pcb2.html
    I just need to connect that R19 :/

  32. #72


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    I don't know if it's the language barrier or what, but hell, I'll give it a shot, again.

    First, I don't know what the files are you keep posting, they have SCH and BRD extensions. I'm guessing that these belong to Eagle or something. So look, not everyone has these programs. I have Orcad and it uses the same extensions which means nothing. Save the output as PDF or jpeg or something that all PC's can open.

    Second, I've posted the schematic from the system that ART did at the beginning. It looks like you or someone decided to change the drive scheme from emitter follower to open collector (if you don't know those terms stop working on this project and get a basic electronics book and do some reading). That's fine if you understand what you are doing, but as far as I know the code that Art wrote won't work with this design. So I'm guessing that after someone answers your "R19" question and if you get though construction of an actual PCB and get it stuffed you'll blindly run the code and it won't work and a new thread will start about how the code is wrong. But I digress...

    As drawn in the schematic posted by "funnydrummer" R19 is connected to the column (anode) pin 13 of LED module (LED6) and to the pin 2 of the PIC which is pulled up by a 10k resistor. As drawn it does nothing. When you push the button tied to R30 the whole line of leds will light, that's it. There are column drivers through resistors R20-R29; I have no idea why they are different on LED1,3 and 5 than on LED2,4 and 6 but hey, whatever. The row connections are different on LED5 and LED6 as well. It may be some "Charlieplexing scheme" or it may simply be someone screwed up drawing the schematic, eh who knows. As its drawn it will be lots of fun to code for (that's sarcasm).

    I'm not trying to be an a-hole or anything, but it sounds like you don't really know what you're doing and have jumped in way over your head. Simply copying schematics and making PCB's might work for little opamp audio circuits and such, but there are concepts going on here that you don't have the grasp of. Have you done a simple project yet and just blinked an led?

    Also, these schematics are drawn horribly. Wires running all over the place like that is a recipe for disaster. Look at the schematic I drew; clean, clearly labeled, etc.

    The original schematic:
    http://www.scarydesign.com/144led/144LEDSCHEMATIC.pdf
    Attached Images Attached Images

  33. #73


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by mtripoli View Post
    As drawn in the schematic posted by "funnydrummer" R19 is connected to the column (anode) pin 13 of LED module (LED6) and to the pin 2 of the PIC which is pulled up by a 10k resistor. As drawn it does nothing. When you push the button tied to R30 the whole line of leds will light, that's it. There are column drivers through resistors R20-R29; I have no idea why they are different on LED1,3 and 5 than on LED2,4 and 6 but hey, whatever. The row connections are different on LED5 and LED6 as well. It may be some "Charlieplexing scheme" or it may simply be someone screwed up drawing the schematic, eh who knows. As its drawn it will be lots of fun to code for (that's sarcasm).
    Look mate, stop whining the whole time and at least have a look at the last schematic and board I posted.
    I can't remove the older post so I'm sorry for that schematic. The power LED was wrongly connected indeed...
    Since I'm only using 144 LEDs + a power LED, there are a lot of LEDs wich aren't connected. All unconnected LEDs will be covered with tape.
    That way you don't have to worry about flashing LEDs. The bottom-right LED is going to be used as power LED, simple as that.

    I'll let you know if it works though. I'm fixing the last errors now and then I'll be ordering a PCB.
    Not everyone's as skilled as another, no need to flame. Just try to help us out or don't bother posting... ;-)

  34. #74


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    LOOK MATE. If anyone here is whining its the people that know nothing about electronics, tackle these kinds of projects and then get on here or any other board asking for help on the simplest of things. I didn't "flame" anyone; if you go back and read the post without attitude you'll see that I wrote it tongue in cheek. As for "helping you out" I re-posted the board file and schematics after YOU and Svrzic sent me PRIVATE MESSAGES asking for help. I don't reply to private messages; the board is here for everyone to read all questions and see all replies.

    Part of the problem with all of this is people RUSH to drawing some schematic in some software they downloaded for free, usually riddled with mistakes, post it to a board like this, confuse others that don't have any experience either and when someone more knowledgeable points out the mistakes you get defensive and start up with "help us or leave". How about you help yourselves FIRST by going online or better yet buy a book on basic electronics and get a fundamental understanding of these things (if I recall you said in your private message you needed this for school). There is FAR MORE TO IT than simply copying someone else's schematic, etching a board in the sink and then loading someone else's code and crossing your fingers that it will work.

    As for "at least have a look at the last schematic and board I posted" I can't. You evidently posted Eagle schematic and board files. Not everyone has or uses these tools, and I'm not about to load up some software only to use it as a basic viewer. This is why we post in a neutral format like a simple jpeg or even a PDF so everyone can see it. Do yourself a favor and post your "latest" in something we can all see, and then those "more skilled" can have a look and potentially stop you from making a mistake that'll keep your project from working.

  35. #75


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by mtripoli View Post
    LOOK MATE. If anyone here is whining its the people that know nothing about electronics, tackle these kinds of projects and then get on here or any other board asking for help on the simplest of things. I didn't "flame" anyone; if you go back and read the post without attitude you'll see that I wrote it tongue in cheek. As for "helping you out" I re-posted the board file and schematics after YOU and Svrzic sent me PRIVATE MESSAGES asking for help. I don't reply to private messages; the board is here for everyone to read all questions and see all replies.

    Part of the problem with all of this is people RUSH to drawing some schematic in some software they downloaded for free, usually riddled with mistakes, post it to a board like this, confuse others that don't have any experience either and when someone more knowledgeable points out the mistakes you get defensive and start up with "help us or leave". How about you help yourselves FIRST by going online or better yet buy a book on basic electronics and get a fundamental understanding of these things (if I recall you said in your private message you needed this for school). There is FAR MORE TO IT than simply copying someone else's schematic, etching a board in the sink and then loading someone else's code and crossing your fingers that it will work.

    As for "at least have a look at the last schematic and board I posted" I can't. You evidently posted Eagle schematic and board files. Not everyone has or uses these tools, and I'm not about to load up some software only to use it as a basic viewer. This is why we post in a neutral format like a simple jpeg or even a PDF so everyone can see it. Do yourself a favor and post your "latest" in something we can all see, and then those "more skilled" can have a look and potentially stop you from making a mistake that'll keep your project from working.
    Nevermind. Thanks for the reply anyway. ;-)

    I'm not a professional, but I tend to learn from people who DO know a lot about electronics.
    And I'm not going to copy any code. The hardware is the 'easy' part, I think.
    I'll post the source for my version of snake (in C) when everything is fully working.

    In the zip file you can find the board file I've sent to the PCB company.
    I hope everything's working, if not, I'll let you guys know.

    Schematic:
    Name:  schematic.png
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    Board:
    Name:  board.png
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    Attached Files Attached Files

  36. #76
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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by funnydrummer View Post
    Nevermind. Thanks for the reply anyway. ;-)

    I'm not a professional, but I tend to learn from people who DO know a lot about electronics.
    And I'm not going to copy any code. The hardware is the 'easy' part, I think.
    I'll post the source for my version of snake (in C) when everything is fully working.

    In the zip file you can find the board file I've sent to the PCB company.
    I hope everything's working, if not, I'll let you guys know.

    Schematic:
    Attachment 6139

    Board:
    Attachment 6140
    can someone help me, or I must find help somewhere else?
    I need to remove that 7x5 displays and put in LED diodes, that's all what I need here.

  37. #77


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    @funnydrummer: You don't need resistors on the base of an emitter follower so you can delete those entirely. If you're opposed to using resistors for current limiting (which is the only reason I can see to stack up diodes like you have from the supply) you can use a constant current regulator (CCR) device like the NSI45020T1G from ON Semi (Mouser, $0.34 each). If you use a CCR device you can get rid of all the transistors and resistors entirely and use just the CCR. Put one per drive segment (they can be used high side or low side, see schematic). Run the PIC from 5V and there you go. And why would you post C code on the Pic Basic forum?


    @Svrzic: The PDF schematic that is posted is FOR DISCRETE LEDS. Regardless if you buy them packaged or use discrete components the schematic is the same. I think you said you're 17 years old. Good for you for your interest in electronics but it sounds like you need to back up a bit and start with something a little easier.

    LEDMATRIX_CCR.pdf

  38. #78


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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    This is really an edit, time expired when I went back...
    ***********************************************
    @funnydrummer: You don't need resistors on the base of an emitter follower so you can delete those entirely. If you're opposed to using resistors for current limiting (which is the only reason I can see to stack up diodes like you have from the supply, (which is a really bad idea but I'm not going into that) you can use a constant current regulator (CCR) device like the NSI45020T1G from ON Semi (Mouser, $0.34 each). If you use a CCR device you can get rid of all the transistors and resistors entirely and use just the CCR. Put one per drive segment (they can be used high side or low side, see attached schematic). Run the PIC from 5V (voltage regulators are a good thing, why you wouldn't use one I don't know) and there you go.

    You're going to need a 0.1uF on each Vdd pin, not just the one you have on the power supply line. While you're at it I'd put at least a 100uF cap on the power supply line as well. It doesn't look like you have a connector for doing ICSP so writing code and debugging will not be any fun at all (unless you like pulling a 40 pin part from a socket for every little change you make to code). If you plan on clipping to the PIC for programming you have no provision for isolating the Vpp line. There is no electrical reason at all for using pull-ups on two switches and pull-downs on the other two, as well as keeping track of that in code is unnecessary. You really should look at the schematic I posted. And why would you post C code on the Pic Basic forum?


    @Svrzic: The PDF schematic that is posted is FOR DISCRETE LEDS. Regardless if you buy them packaged or use discrete components the schematic is the same. I think you said you're 17 years old. Good for you for your interest in electronics but it sounds like you need to back up a bit and start with something a little easier.

    Attachment 6142

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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by mtripoli View Post
    @funnydrummer: You don't need resistors on the base of an emitter follower so you can delete those entirely. If you're opposed to using resistors for current limiting (which is the only reason I can see to stack up diodes like you have from the supply) you can use a constant current regulator (CCR) device like the NSI45020T1G from ON Semi (Mouser, $0.34 each). If you use a CCR device you can get rid of all the transistors and resistors entirely and use just the CCR. Put one per drive segment (they can be used high side or low side, see schematic). Run the PIC from 5V and there you go. And why would you post C code on the Pic Basic forum?


    @Svrzic: The PDF schematic that is posted is FOR DISCRETE LEDS. Regardless if you buy them packaged or use discrete components the schematic is the same. I think you said you're 17 years old. Good for you for your interest in electronics but it sounds like you need to back up a bit and start with something a little easier.

    Attachment 6142
    in the schematic, LED diodes are like this: Name:  Capture.JPG
Views: 2599
Size:  27.5 KB
    i need to put ins schematic LED diodes like this: Name:  2.JPG
Views: 2256
Size:  9.4 KB
    I just need someone to remove LED diodes from schematic from my first picture, and put LED diodes from my second picture, and that's it.
    P.S. Yes, I have 17 years, but I am going to technical school, and we are not doing with components as from first picture, we are doing with components as from second picture.

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    Default Re: 144 LED Games Console Project

    Quote Originally Posted by mtripoli View Post
    @funnydrummer: You don't need resistors on the base of an emitter follower so you can delete those entirely. If you're opposed to using resistors for current limiting (which is the only reason I can see to stack up diodes like you have from the supply, (which is a really bad idea but I'm not going into that) you can use a constant current regulator (CCR) device like the NSI45020T1G from ON Semi (Mouser, $0.34 each). If you use a CCR device you can get rid of all the transistors and resistors entirely and use just the CCR. Put one per drive segment (they can be used high side or low side, see attached schematic). Run the PIC from 5V (voltage regulators are a good thing, why you wouldn't use one I don't know) and there you go.

    You're going to need a 0.1uF on each Vdd pin, not just the one you have on the power supply line. While you're at it I'd put at least a 100uF cap on the power supply line as well. It doesn't look like you have a connector for doing ICSP so writing code and debugging will not be any fun at all (unless you like pulling a 40 pin part from a socket for every little change you make to code). If you plan on clipping to the PIC for programming you have no provision for isolating the Vpp line. There is no electrical reason at all for using pull-ups on two switches and pull-downs on the other two, as well as keeping track of that in code is unnecessary. You really should look at the schematic I posted. And why would you post C code on the Pic Basic forum?
    Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I really appreciate it!

    Too bad I already ordered the PCB, it's a big one so it would be a bit costly to order a second one.
    I might edit and optimize the schematic/board in the future, but for now I'm just hoping the current board will do.
    The next thing to do is programming. ;-)

    Good point though, this is forum isn't called PIC-C...
    I'm not familiar with basic programming, that's why I'm just gonna go with C.
    I thought it would be nice to post the source anyway, just for the people who prefer C over basic.

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