PIC USB Programmer

[PICtron]

Hi,

does anyone have experience with THIS USB Programmer ?

What I read from it's description it appears to be a bargain.

[mister_e]

looks good. For 79$ USD, you have an USB PIC programmer that it supposed to be an PICSTART+ clone. I think it worth to give a try and keep other here poste on that.

[PICMAN]

looks pretty good, only problem i have withmine is geting the chips off, looks like that one would be a bit easier

[NavMicroSystems]

Jerry, Steve & PICMAN

I have ordered one and will let you know how it works.

[NavMicroSystems]

I have received my PIC-MCP-USB Programmer today.

(Fully assembled PCB with precision gold-plated 40pin ZIF-Socket on Board)

What I can tell so far is:

- It is really Plug&Play
- works nicely on a USB-port of my Notebook computer
- does not require any external Power-Supply.
- is fully supported by MPLAB 7.00


The only thing that is a bit disappointing to me is the speed.

It might be faster as PICSTART+, but it is still slow.

However,
if you are looking for a Plug&Play USB-Programmer
that supports the full Range of PIC MCUs
at a reasonable price,
it appears to be a good choice.

[PICtron]

Hi,

I have received my Programmer today and just can confirm what Ralph has already said.

Somewhere on the WEB (can't remember where)
I have read that OLIMEX is working on a "standalone" Software for this Programmer.

With this Software you could use the Programmer without MPLAB,
and it is supposed to be MUCH faster.

[NavMicroSystems]

If you ever experience a "USB device not recognized" error

with PIC-MCP-USB
or
any other OLIMEX USB Product

have a look at THIS

[RubenR]

I'm using the K150 USB programmer from kitRus http://kitsrus.com/upuc.html#k150

It's a high speed USB-programmer with ZIF-socket included and ICSP-support. The only disadvantage is that you have to use a 16 Volt DC adapter with it.

But the price is nice: USD 47.45 at Electronics123:
http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c....it.A/id.298/.f

[PICMAN]

am i the only one surprised that programer worked off a laptop usb port,,

in my readings it seemed u were lucky to get one to work w/o powersuply off usb, , let alone laptop usb,

[PICtron]

The PIC-MCP-USB does not need any external PowerSupply.
It has a witching DC-DC converter on board that generates the higher voltages from +5V (off the USB port).

B.T.W.

OLIMEX is working on a standalone programming Software for the PIC-MCP-USB.

(With this software you don't need MPLAB anymore to just program a HEX-file onto the PIC)

According to Tsvetan (OLIMEX) the Software should be available by the end of this month.

[PICMAN]

since it has dc to dc converter, should it work on ALL laptops,. lets say by chane the one i have at my disposal,, is old and has the lowest curent output seen on usb, say below 5 v, will it still prouduce needed curent, or is this dependant on a certian voltage from usb,,

reason i ask is im thinking about seting up a more mobile programing solution,, and just hapen to have a lil hp laptop, i just dont want to buy a second programer, and not be able to use it mobily, it just makes sence to me that even with a dc dc converter it would still require a minimum voltage in,

[Luciano]

Theory

Once connected, all USB devices must identify themselves to the host. This is called “enumeration.” In the identification process, the host determines the power needs of the USB devices and allows or denies the device to increase its load from 100-mA maximum to 500-mA maximum.


Theory vs. Reality

USB ports do not limit current. Although the USB spec provides details about how much current a USB port must supply, there are mile-wide limits on how much it might supply. Though the upper limit specifies that the current never exceed 5 A, a wise designer shouldn't rely on that. In any case, a USB port can never be counted on to limit its output current to 500 mA, or any amount near that. In fact, output current from a port often exceeds several amperes since multiport systems (such as PCs) frequently have only one protection device for all ports in the system. The protection device is set above the total power rating of all the ports. Therefore, a 4-port system may supply more than 2 A from one port if the other ports are not loaded. Furthermore, while some PCs use 10% to 20% accurate IC-based protection, others use less accurate polyfuses (fuses that reset themselves) that will not trip until the load is 100% or more above the rating.

USB ports rarely, if ever, turn off power. The USB spec isn't specific about this, but it's sometimes believed that USB power may be disconnected as a result of failed enumeration, or other software or firmware problems. In actual practice, no USB host shuts off USB power for anything other than an electrical fault (such as a short). Most notebook and mother-board makers are unwilling to pay for fault protection, let alone smart power switching. So no matter what dialog takes place between a USB peripheral and host, 5 V (at either 500 mA or 100 mA, or even maybe 2 A or more) will be available. This is born out by the appearance in the market of USB-powered reading lights, coffee mug warmers, and other items that have no communication capability. They may not be “compliant,” but they function.

Source:
http://powerelectronics.com/mag/powe...attery_faster/

For the pdf version of the article, including diagrams:
http://powerelectronics.com/ar/Maxim.pdf

[NavMicroSystems]

PICMAN.

Luciano has already given a good description of USB.

There is one thing I would like to point out.

Regardless what type of Laptop you are planning to use,

it will provide a voltage of 5V at the USB port,
(no less, no more)

the only difference will be in current the port can provide.

minimum usually is about 100mA, standard is about 500mA. Some ports provide even more.

My experience is the PIC-MCP-USB runs even off a 100mA port.

[PICMAN]

wow thnx guys, thats what i needed to know, ( and more so i undestand the conecept now ) ty vm

[PIC-User]

Hi guys, if you are looking for a cheap PIC programmer, you can visit here: http://www.etekronics.com/product_in...a483e51450b518
This programmer seems a modified version of K149.

[Luciano]

Hi guys, if you are looking for a cheap PIC programmer, you can visit here: http://www.etekronics.com/product_in...a483e51450b518
This programmer seems a modified version of K149.

It uses the USB Port as the power source but works through the serial port of the PC.
The programmer will work only if the computer has a serial port AND a USB port.
(The original post was "PIC USB Programmer").

Luciano

[EE42]

does anyone have experience with THIS USB Programmer ?

I bought one of these programmers, the Olimex pic-mcp-usb, but wish I hadn't.

It doesn't support all the chips they advertise.

If you upgrade the firmware to support new chips, you loose the ability to program some of the old ones. Apparently they ran out of programming space.

The firmware upgrader is designed so that you can never go back to a prevous version. The onboard chip is code protected so you can't copy it before doing an upgrade.

They don't tell you any of this, and you won't find out until you try to program a non-supported chip and you get the error message: "Structure transfer unsuccessful. Please reset PICSTART Plus."

It may take you hours to figure out what is going on because this is not documented anywhere.

If you own this programmer and it is working for you, then NEVER UPGRADE THE FIRMWARE.

If you do, you may loose the ability to program the chips you need. The company (Olimex) will not remedy this. You will have to buy a new programmer.

More info here:
http://www.sparkfun.com/cgi-bin/phpb...pic.php?t=1216

[sanpic]

I'm use a GTP USB Lite programmer, the best , and totally free.
Support all F series and dsPIC chip.
http://perso.wanadoo.es/j1m/proyecto...lite/index.htm


Original version is here , http://perso.wanadoo.es/siscobf/winpic800.htm .
This version support ZIF adapter for F series and ICSP.
The zip files included : schematic, soft programmer (the best), firmware (18F2550) and USB drivers.


Enjoy it.




This version is a ICSP programmer.

[crematory]

Hello

I am using that software, its really nice.

I was sick of extracting the zipped file and put winpic800 in the program files directory, so I made it as a setup file, if ny intrested, I can upload it here

[mizk_electro]

Hello

I am using that software, its really nice.

I was sick of extracting the zipped file and put winpic800 in the program files directory, so I made it as a setup file, if ny intrested, I can upload it here

Crematory,

Appreciated if you can upload winpic800(which WORKING with GTP-USB Lite).

Thnks in advanced for your contribution.

[mizk_electro]

I'm use a GTP USB Lite programmer, the best , and totally free.
Support all F series and dsPIC chip.
http://perso.wanadoo.es/j1m/proyecto...lite/index.htm


Original version is here , http://perso.wanadoo.es/siscobf/winpic800.htm .
This version support ZIF adapter for F series and ICSP.
The zip files included : schematic, soft programmer (the best), firmware (18F2550) and USB drivers.


Enjoy it.






This version is a ICSP programmer.

Sanpic,

Can you upload/share the WORKING GTP-USB Lite programmer .... schematic,firmware(hex code),PCB & guide(if any) ... if possible in zip format.

I tried many sch & firmware on the net but fail ....

If you can share it, I thks you very very very much ... Now I'm using laptop with no serial port & i need to go to my friend house (40km ++) just to program PIC .... real badddddd ....

[mister_e]

by a USB to serial adapter. It's under 20$ now and always usefull.

[uiucee2003]

http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/show...newpost&t=4385

This is my first experience with both USB and equipment from meLabs, and I am having trouble communicating with my USB programmer. This is what I have done so far:

1. Once the programmer software was booted, I inserted the USB cable into the programmer for the first time, which prompted Windows 98 to install the necessary drivers.

2. I eventually find the two it asked for - hidparse.sys and hydusb.sys - and Windows completed its task.

3. I attempted to load a program and use the "Get target information" option but I received an error message: "Lost communication with Programmer"

4. When I try the steps in 3 with the USB cable off, I get "Unable to communicate. Check USB cable"

5. This errors occur w/wo the Lab X-2 board plugged into the programmer. The "Port" in the programmer software is set to Auto; the other options are greyed-out

This is what's in my computer, as far as drivers and such:
hidparse.sys C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\DRIVERS 40KB
hidusb.sys C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\DRIVERS 9KB
HIDagentXControl1.ocx C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM 732KB
HIDagentXControl1.ocx C:\Program Files\meLabs Programmer 732KB
regsvr32 C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM 37KB

I am using Windows 98 [Version 4.10.1998].

The computer knows the programmer is there, but for some reason losses communication with it. Does anyone know what the problem could be? I have already read through the common problems section in the readme and help files provided by meLabs.

Thanks!

http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/show...newpost&t=4385

[gdgdx]

I'm using the K150 USB programmer from kitRus http://kitsrus.com/upuc.html#k150

It's a high speed USB-programmer with ZIF-socket included and ICSP-support. The only disadvantage is that you have to use a 16 Volt DC adapter with it.

But the price is nice: USD 47.45 at Electronics123:
http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c....it.A/id.298/.f

This is a brand-new USB & serial port dual mode PIC programmer. It is fully compatible with the popular Kit 149 PIC programmer, with several added enhanced features. It takes power from the USB port and generates various required Vpp voltages via an onboard DC-DC upconverter IC circuitry, thus NO AC/DC adapter is required. Unlike the original K149 PIC programmer where upgrading firmware means taking the firmware chip out and having it programmed externally, this programmer has a built-in circuitry for easy on-board firmware upgrading. It also includes an advanced six-pin ICSP pinheader. USB and RS232 working modes are switchable via a simple push button. When USB mode is selected, the serial cable is not needed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-Serial-Dual-...QQcmdZViewItem

[malc-c]

I came across a guy on e-bay selling ready built GTP-USB programmers. He also offers bare boards and complete kits for £21

http://www.ct-tuning.co.uk

I've purchased a bare PCB as I had 99% of the descrete components (just waiting for the order from RS to arrive with the crystals in) - I received the board and USB socket for £5.00. The quality of the PCB is very good.

I also have the original HEX firmware and winpic800 ver 3.55g when the originator made the files available. Later versions are only supported by the commercial GTP-USB plus programmer.

I'll let you know how it performs

[skimask]

I don't know the exact specifics of why this works, but it does for a lot of things.
One problem I've been coming across when using various USB devices is the fact that a lot of people are plugging them into the 'front ports' of their cases. These USB ports are generally (not always) connected to a USB hub chip on the motherboard and introduces some latency in the communications. The programming software doesn't get a response in time, then fails.
The rear USB ports are almost always connected directly to the motherboard's chipset and are in a direct line with the system.
I've got 3 different MP3 players, a couple of USB type programmers for various chip types, and a few other USB devices. Almost all of them have problems with the front ports when trying to reprogram them. None of them have any problem when doing basic communications (bulk transfers, etc.).

Basically, it boils down to not using a USB hub, even the front ports in most systems are effectively on a hub, whereas the rear ports aren't.

Hope that helps somebody out. It hooked me up...

[mvs_sarma]

Hi all

I understand that Microchips PICkit2 is presently available at very low prices almost around 20 bucks? someone can check it. if so why not picKIT2

[skimask]

Hi all

I understand that Microchips PICkit2 is presently available at very low prices almost around 20 bucks? someone can check it. if so why not picKIT2

Microchip PICKIT2 direct from Microchip on-line is $40USD, but they're out of stock.
Digikey has the same thing at the same price, and they're in stock.

[mvs_sarma]

I don't know the exact specifics of why this works, but it does for a lot of things.
One problem I've been coming across when using various USB devices is the fact that a lot of people are plugging them into the 'front ports' of their cases. These USB ports are generally (not always) connected to a USB hub chip on the motherboard and introduces some latency in the communications. The programming software doesn't get a response in time, then fails.
The rear USB ports are almost always connected directly to the motherboard's chipset and are in a direct line with the system.
I've got 3 different MP3 players, a couple of USB type programmers for various chip types, and a few other USB devices. Almost all of them have problems with the front ports when trying to reprogram them. None of them have any problem when doing basic communications (bulk transfers, etc.).

Basically, it boils down to not using a USB hub, even the front ports in most systems are effectively on a hub, whereas the rear ports aren't.

Hope that helps somebody out. It hooked me up...

Hi,

it is a nice and useful observation. Perhaps we have to see whether the front ports are served by a flat cable and not couing up for speed. how ever we are working at very low speed while programming the PICs or any other devices. it should not matter-- this point is worth analyzing.

Ps: in my pc with chinese cabinet, i find a twisted pair wires connected. but no FT232 chip aroun the pins. thus it may perhaps be travelling longer distance on the mother bd itself.(Intel 915GLVG)

[skimask]

Hi,

it is a nice and useful observation. Perhaps we have to see whether the front ports are served by a flat cable and not couing up for speed. how ever we are working a t very low speed while programming the PICs or any other devices. it should not matter-- this point is worth analyzing.

Yes, we are working at low speeds, nowhere near even the USB 1.1 limit. The problem is that USB works in packets, it 'saves up' data, then spits it out in bulk and waits 'x' amount of time for a response. It's got nothing to do with the cable (well, ok, 3 strands of wire aren't going to work very well ). If you've got a 'hub' in the middle (like most front USB port setups), it's another millisecond or two of waiting for whatever software is running on Windows. That extra millisecond is what causes some Windows program to dump thinking that the device has disconnected...or something...

You're right...it shouldn't matter. But, like I've said, I've got an iPod Shuffle, Mobiblu Cube, RCA Lyra (all mp3 players), a Warp13a running on a USB-serial converter, a cheap Lexmark printer, a 2.5" USB hard drive case, a Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar joystick/throttle, and a full setup of CHProducts Virtual Flight Yoke, Pedals, Throttle setup...
I've also got 2 different PC's, one is a cheap, low end Soyo motherboard, the other is a high end Asus type. None of the above mentioned items will work 100% of the time on the front ports and none of them will 'flash upgrade' on the front ports at any time; All of then will work 100% of the time and 'flash upgrade' without problem on the rear ports. And, on my Dell 8200 laptop, everything flash upgrades just fine when plugged directly into the laptop. But as soon as I plug in a USB hub of some type, they fail 99% of the time.

I've duplicated this behavior on a half a dozen computers (prebuilt Dell & Gateway types, home builts, top of the line, bottom of the barrel, etc), neighbors, friends, co-workers, etc. (after awhile it just becomes pointless to test a theory, but ya know, why not).

I don't know if it's Windows XP (although I've tried it using WinME, Win2K, and Win98SE w/ USB patch and they do the same thing) or just some obscure USB driver bug that most manufacturers seem to have...

Beats me... I just know that plugging into the rear (direct motherboard connect) ports always works for me when doing something sensitive like flash upgrading something. For regular use, front ports work fine.