Which chip do i use?

[The Master]

Im stuck already. You knew it wouldnt be long :P

Im using a 16MHz oscillator. In my code i have put "define osc 16". The rest of the code simply turns an LED on an off a few times to show the chip is working.

What im getting is a quick flash when it powers up and when it powers down.

I think this might be to do with the fuse settings. What should the following be set to?

WDT
PWRTE
BODEN
LVP
MCLRE (i assume E means external so Matt had this disabled)
Oscillator
Code Protect (i know this should be disabled)

for Oscillator i have the following options to choose from
ERCLK
ERIO
IRCCLK
IRCIO
EXTCLK
LP
XT
HS

The other options are enabled/disabled.

BTW. Do you want me to start new threads for any questions about this or stick to this one? Its all the same project

Edit: Im using a PIC16F627

[mackrackit]

MCLRE is just the name.
For internal (Not used for reset but the pins other functions) the fuse should be
_MCLRE_OFF

HS for the OSC

[The Master]

Woo it works Its a bit fast though. i put 100ms pauses in and it flashes a lot faster than when i use a 4MHz resonator. I know 16MHz is 4 times faster but i thought the point of declaring that was so "pause 100" would still take 100ms and not 25. Maby ive got something else wrong. I was reading about timers in the datasheet. I didnt understand any of it but part of it could mean the chip runs 4 times faster than the resonator you use.

It doesnt matter anyway. If i want 100ms then i just type 400. The point is the LED flashes. Tomoz ill get onto the real code but its 10:00 now so i should be getting to bed. Up at 4:30AM for work

Anyways. Thanx for that. I would have been lost trying to figure it out myself

[mackrackit]

Where are you setting the fuses? In the *.inc file or in the code.

A programmer never sleeps. When things get fuzzy is when some of the best work is done

[The Master]

Im setting the fuses in the programmer software right after loading the file. How do you do it in PBP? Its annoying having to keep setting them.

Also, Serial doesnt appear to be working. This is probs to do with the same problem but how do i figure out what value to give to spbrg? I found this page but im not sure what it all means. I entered 16 and it gives me a table. How do i know what BRGH is set to?

Edit: Just downloaded a calculator from Mister_e's website. It makes more sense but its still not working. I think ill go sleep on it

[The Master]

Solved the oscillator problem.

"DEFINE osc 16" doesnt work
"DEFINE OSC 16" does work

Serial still not working but i have a feeling thats something simple.

Ive tried 2 things from Mister-e's calculator

DEFINE HSER_RCSTA 90h ' Enable serial port & continuous receive
DEFINE HSER_TXSTA 20h ' Enable transmit, BRGH = 0
DEFINE HSER_SPBRG 25  ' 9600 Baud @ 16MHz, 0.16%
DEFINE HSER_CLROERR 1 ' Clear overflow automatically

RCSTA = $90 ' Enable serial port & continuous receive
TXSTA = $20 ' Enable transmit, BRGH = 0
SPBRG = 25  ' 9600 Baud @ 16MHz, 0.16%

I have also added this code

loop:
if pir1.5=1 then
          newbyte=rcreg
          high portb.0
          pause 100
          low portb.0
endif
goto loop

when any serial data comes in that should make the LED flash but its not doing. I think this might be to do with the circuit itself (currently thinking outside of the box. Using breadboard instead). Ill try and solve that tomoz. For now though i really am going to bed :P Ill let you know how it goes tomoz

[mister_e]

if you don't use any HSERIN/HSEROUT you use the second methode, unless you use the DEFINE method.

this one work here

        @   __CONFIG _HS_OSC & _LVP_OFF
        DEFINE OSC 20
        
        PORTB=0
        TRISB = %00000010
        RCSTA = $90 ' Enable serial port & continuous receive
        TXSTA = $24 ' Enable transmit, BRGH = 1
        SPBRG = 129 ' 9600 Baud @ 20MHz, 0.16%
            
        PIE1.5 = 1  ' Enable USART interrupt
        

start:
        if PIR1.5 = 1 THEN  ' RCIF FULL?
                PORTB.0=1
                PAUSE 200
                PORTB.0=0
                WHILE PIR1.5 
                    TXREG=RCREG ' send it back to the pc
                                ' utill USART buffer is empty
                    wend
                
                if RCSTA.1=1 THEN  ' ANY Overrun?
                    RCSTA.4=0      '  YES clear it
                    RCSTA.4=1      '
                    ENDIF
                    
                endif
                
        goto start

just change DEFINE OSC, TXSTA and SPBRG to suite your requirement. Make sure you have a RS232 inverter (MAX232 or else) between your PC and your PIC.

And YES the DEFINE's have to be in capital letter, unless it will never work.

[The Master]

Thanx for the code. Just a few questions on it. "@ __CONFIG _HS_OSC & _LVP_OFF" causes an error.

Why do i need an "RS232 inverter"? Serial works fine through serin2. I think Matt did use one because theres some extra stuff on the serial input but i wasnt sure what it was for. It appears to be an optoisolator and a diode

[The Master]

Im finally getting somewhere with it. Ive got it to recognise when serial data is being sent and ive got it to fade the bulb out using the sync with the zero crossing. There is still a problem that remains. The serial data that comes in is being currupted. I have a feeling this is to do with that RS232 inverter you mentioned.

Ive seen examples on the net saying serin2 can use inverted and non-inverted serial. Can i use non-inverted here too? At the moment i have a 100K resistor from VSS to RX and a 330ohm resistor from the serial port to RX. That is how i normally do it and it works with serin2.

I used your code example to echo the input back to the PC. I sent it numbers from 1 to 100 but it replied with completely diff numbers. They appear to be random but they arnt because if i send the same value twice i get the same value back twice.

I think im so close now. PWM is working and i can program the chip to make the lights fade out Its just sorting this last serial problem out and hopefully i can start work on the real program

[mister_e]

The PIC USART use TRUE mode, and there's no way to use INVERTED mode for that PIC, hence why you need a max232 or transistor or else inverter.... also why you have strange results on your PC when you echo the data.

st a few questions on it. "@ __CONFIG _HS_OSC & _LVP_OFF" causes an error.

You must use MPASM to use this line, or change it to PM requirement. Even if you're using MPASM, it may return an error (overwriting previous address plah plah).

Have a look at the following for more info about Configuration Fuses.

Presetting Configuration Fuses (PIC Defines) into your Program

http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=543

[The Master]

Yes. That overwrite thing was the error i got. I have got MPASM turned on. I thought it didnt like it.

What is the cheapest option for the 232 inverter? Ive had a look for max232 in rapid and they range from a few pence to a few pounds but i dont completely understand which type i need. I have a single serial input that must go to 2 PIC chips.

Matt used a MOC8102 but rapid dont sell those. Once i know what i need for this im gonna order the parts straight away. Im sure everything else is sorted. Just the serial to go.

Ive connected a wire from Matts box into the pic so i can use his circuit for the serial while im testing so i can get on and program the chip. I do have a small question about the program. Its still fading in upto about 40% then 40-60% are all the same brightness and 60-100% work as expected. Do i just alter the timings to compensate?

[The Master]

Wow. This thing runs so fast I managed to send commands from the PC so fast that i almost managed PWM (it was flickery tho cos the PC isnt sync'd)

Ive got a good idea of the code that im gonna write now so ill sort that tomoz. I just need to know about the serial inverter now and i can get the parts ordered and finish designing the PCB

[The Master]

I found a diagram on the net. Ive modified it to how i think it should be for my circuit. (See attachment).

Is that diagram correct?
Which chip do i use? :P (back to that question) I think its one of the chips on this page. Im not completely sure but the one that looks right to me is the "MAX232CPE+ CMOS DUAL RS232TRANS/RCV RC" Order code: 82-0148.
And for the caps, will this one do? The diagram says 1u 16V and that one is 50V but i dont think that matters

[The Master]

I have ordered a MAX232CPE RS-232 Transmitter/Receiver from Maplin. (Its free so why not).

I will hold onto my main order a little longer though incase you say i need something else.

[mister_e]

MAX232 is what you need, you could still use a simple transistor/mosfet as inverter. for short distance that's good enough. Here's one of the various transistor solution available over the net
http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/serial/ttl2rs232.htm

The ICSP diagram might work or not depending of your programmer, Microchip have an ICSP guide
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/e...Doc/30277d.pdf

there's also the usual Melabs schematic bellow:

http://www.melabs.com/support/icsp.htm

[The Master]

I dont need ICSP. Im hoping i wont need to reprogram anything once there up and running. I do plan to use it in the future though and my programmer board does have a socket for it

That thing i found in Maplin, is it not right? Its a MAX232 but i dunno what CPE means

[mister_e]

MAX232CPE, CSE,CWE, C/D WHATEVER, it's all good. Just open the datasheet and it's state what the letters mean...
http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/1798.pdf

from one one brand to another, the letters meaning might change.

[The Master]

I have been looking at the datasheet but i couldnt find where it said anything about those letters. 2 of those are on the way so ill go and order the rest of my components and finish the PCB design off.

Thanx so much for all your help. I might need a little help with the code but i think i know what im doing. Just a few issues i should be able to figure out.

Edit: Found it. I didnt see the one right infront of me at the top but the one with the actual information in that i need is right at the bottom (like it says at the top. I didnt see that bit). I dont like PDF files. They load slow and take ages to scroll and ive only just found out they have a search function

[mister_e]

EDIT: ok!

[The Master]

I guess you were typing that while i was editing my previous message. I was looking for it so hard that i didnt see it. The lack of a search function didnt help either but ive found how to work that now.

I do have trouble understanding some datasheets. This one was a bit obvious but a lot of things arnt. Not to me anyway. They should have shown us how to read them as school

Edit: HAHA

[mister_e]

mmm yeah, that's really annoying, at school they only teach you how to read. But they never go further : how to read recipe, datasheet, instruction manual, etc etc. Teachers really need to go back to school themself prior to teach

pst.. i'm dj as well.

[The Master]

Yeah. Ive heard. Dont you play house or trance or something? I started with that then moved to hardcore. I dont mix much now tho cos ive started gettin into Jpop. I should get my decks out around x-mas and have a bit of a mix

[mister_e]

at the nightclub i work, i play almost everything (70's to now), but my real speciality when i do some 'after-hour' party or 'rave events (if we can still use that name)' is more hard/Happy/electro/afrikan house, tribal, techno, even GOA style is still good enough I stoped to play trance awhile back.. just because there's too much people out-there playing it

You know... the real stuff... No Rihanna, no commercial stuff and of course... NO F*** hip-hop bullsh*t

Anyways, if you plan to go on this side of the world, let me know, that would be cool to have a jam together

Regular gear:
DJM-600 (planning to move on DJM-800 soon)
EFX-500
3X CDJ-1000 MK3
3X SL-1200 MK2
and recently Serato Scratch live .. just to add some pleasure to work...

[The Master]

I would like to mix in clubs but its hard gettin that first gig. Ive played at a few small raves and 1 small nightclub but nothing has come of it. I practiced for about 2 hours a day for well over a year till i could mix quite well. Now i hardly mix at all. I do play gabber sometimes aswell. Ive got a gabber set on www.happyhardcore.com called White Noise. I really should mix another set for them.

And my equipment:-
Behringer DJX600 mixer
2 X Technics SL1200 GLD Gold decks
A double crappy CD player that only half works (I dont care. I never play CDs)
2 X 400W Carlsbro speakers
2 X 600W Carlsbro bass speakers

Edit: I need a new mixer. I can get a bit overexcited with the faders and some dont work now

Ive got a disco too. I dont do proper mixing for that, i just let a PC play the music. I used to use CDs but i had so many problems with scratched discs and dodgy lasers so i moved to a PC. It also allows me to make sure everything is working fine. The lighting PC crashed once because of a slight programming error. Woops. Im working on some new lights at the moment. IVe got the PCBs done and programmed but i might modify them to support fading now i know how.

Ill upload some pics if i can find them :P

[mister_e]

Serato Scratch Live works pretty well 'till now... I heard of another software ... but i just don't remind it's name. I NEVER trust ANY PC-Based stuff for live performance... EVEN i don't trust ANY CDs... why i always carry my vinyls...

23 years of DJ experience... and i have 34

New Mixer... i only suggest Pioneer ones.. they're really nice and tough... a bit expensive but they never ever fail. When a fader fail 50-80$ is all you need to replace one and it's good for few years of hard work... be sure... they really have hard times with me so 1 year with me.. is about ten with others

[The Master]

Here we go. The last 4 were what my mate took and they look a bit blury. I had some better ones but i cant find them anywhere. Pic 1 is in my room, Pic 2 is a wallpaper my mate made for me and the rest are from my 18th birthday. Ill see if i can locate any newer pics. That was 2 years ago, theres almost twice as many lights now

http://www.spooktech.org/BLG/PicAlbu...umID=1&APage=1

[The Master]

Serato Scratch Live works pretty well 'till now... I heard of another software ... but i just don't remind it's name. I NEVER trust ANY PC-Based stuff for live performance... EVEN i don't trust ANY CDs... why i always carry my vinyls...

23 years of DJ experience... and i have 34

I use winamp for discos. I never use anything but vinyl for proper mixin tho. Not even CDs.

34 vinyls? I was collecting for about 2 years and i have over 500. I dont sell mine tho :P

[mister_e]

nah.. i'm 34 years old...and i have exactly 47,481 vinyls(33 rpm + 45 rpm) of all style + few thousand original CDs.

NO WAY i will sell them... too much 'souvenirs' in that.

PS: nice pictures.. the last one looks like a Pioneer CDJ-100 cd... i still have a pair of it here... but no longer use it. The dual CD 'looks like' a Stanton one.. not sure of it. I already worked with one 1 night.. and at the end of the night... i throw it away with a baseball bat.. pure c r a p !

SORRY ALL FORUM MEMBER... we are really out of topic

[The Master]

Wow. I should start collecting again :P Trouble is that i got all the tunes i really wanted. Now im spending upto 25,000 yen a time on Jpop. I like the vinyls i have though. Most ppl will carry on buying the new tunes so ill be playin diff stuff to everyone else.

I cant sell my vinyls. So many are worth loads. I got one for £5 thats now worth at least £50. I got a vinyl from Scott Brown for £6. They pressed the wrong track on the other side and realised after making 500 of them so thats rare. Ive got tonnes of white labels too. I used to buy all the new stuff as it came out. I do have 3 vinyls that i should sell. 2 i accidentally got twice and one i thought was a good track but it was a rubbish one with the same name The rest im keepin tho

I was after some dubplates from Wonter. He said he could get good quality ones but i never got them They were good tracks too

Im not sure what mixer i was looking at. Probs pioneer. It was almost identical to my current one but black and it has better FX

Anyways. Ill chat tomoz if you want. Its almost 2:00AM here now and ive been up since 4:30AM. Half my brain is shutting down cos its too tired and the other half got fried while i was messing with my circuit. Speaking of which i have ordered the rest of the parts now. Was only about £150. Each box costs £30 but then theres the wire and other expensive rubbish. Gotta modify 10 sets of fairy lights tomoz. Im gonna make them into 1 double length 5 chanel set

Edit: The twin CD thing is the one thats broken. Its prosound. The other CD players are what UFO brought with him

[mackrackit]

SORRY ALL FORUM MEMBER... we are really out of topic

I am finding it very interesting!

Reminds me of how I got started in electronics, building audio amps.

[mister_e]

prosound... mmm, never saw that brand over here... i thought it was that one (stanton S-550)


but... yeah looking closer, it doesn't look the same...

[nomad]

i find it all interesting too. pulled out my voice of buddha goa cd.

[The Master]

LOL. I suppose its not too bad because it is in the off topic forum anyway.

I had to pack my decks away because i didnt have enough room what with new disco lights and a pinball machine etc. Ive got 1 whole table covered in components now from the x-mas circuit. I love electronics but i hate tidying up.

My mate DJ Robbie D should be coming back from spain for a few weeks soon so ill have to get my stuff out again and arrange a party.

BTW. Those CD players are very similar. They do almost exactly the same thing but mine are the cheap ones. The backlights have already blown so i replaced them with LEDs now one side wont load CDs and the display on the other side goes weird so i cant use either. I thought about buying new ones but i dont need them really. Any CDs i get i just rip to media center.

Do you make any of your own tunes or do you just play them? I had a few tries but it takes so long to get it right

Edit: Might have to get back to you about those audio amps. Im gonna need one for the next pinball machine i make

[The Master]

I have a small question about the MAX232 chip. In that diagram i posted 2 of the caps appear to be the wrong way round. The ones to +V and -V. Is that right?

[mister_e]

they're really goes like bellow


for your CD, don't worry, usually you just need to change the laser pick-up. I'll bet on those regular KSS-213C which can be found in many Denon, Numark ones... one of my supplier have a deal 'till january.. 10 CAN$ each

Yes i do my own remix/mashup and do my own creation with ACID 6 and tons of VST's. Recently bought a Novation Remote 37 SL MIDI controller... that's a really nice one... the automap feature is really a must for time saving. Pretty nice controller with lots of control, faders and encoder.

One day i may share some ... still thinking....

Talking about buddha... not close yet, but i already used that VST in few of my Lo-Fi and Tribal tunes...
http://www.kvraudio.com/get/226.html

have a look at YouTube, some already post their stuff using it... really nice VST and fun to watch. Sounds is clear/neat and crispy... can't believe it's free!

[The Master]

Right. Looking at that diagram the caps appear to be correct but now im wondering about those chips. They are dual chips so can i use a single chip to give a single serial input to 2 PIC chips like in the diagram i uploaded before?

[tenaja]

For modern-day RS232, I use the FTDI chips. The new 232R accepts the PIC outputs at whatever voltage it's running, regardless of the polarity it's running at (you don't need voltage inverters or level shifters, be it software uart or hardware). It takes very few components to get it to the PC, and, best of all, it's a USB chip so it'll work with any modern PC.

[The Master]

That sounds good. I am looking to move to USB eventually. The only problem i have is that each device would require a USB port. I was thinking about a distribution box though. Something that connects by USB to the PC but uses serial to connect to the lights